Icebergs – the raw power of nature. There's something about them that makes it impossible to look away. It's like staring into an open fire, filled with wonder. Each iceberg is unique, both in size and appearance. Sermilik Fjord, where we've been cruising for the past two days, is filled with icebergs the size of houses, which have drifted down from the Helheim Glacier at the far end of the fjord. They vary in shape: large, small, pointed, tabular – each with its own distinct character.

To be classified as an iceberg, it must be at least 15 meters high, and the larger ones can reach over 75 meters. During the winter, the entire fjord is covered by a 4-5 meter thick layer of ice, which cracks open, allowing the ice to drift out with the current.

September is truly a great time to be here; we are privileged to be able to venture deep into the beautiful fjord with our stable ship. We stand on deck, gazing out, letting our thoughts drift in wonder. Smiles adorn everyone's faces. The ship weaves its way between the icebergs, and there's nothing to do but enjoy the spectacle. No one wants to go inside. Is that iceberg really the biggest we've seen? Perhaps. But what’s that over there? We scan from one side to the other, not wanting to miss anything happening on either side of our ice-strengthened ship. I feel so small among these enormous icebergs! The sun beams down, making the sea and ice sparkle. ‘Surreal,’ someone says, and I can’t help but agree – it’s truly a ‘pinch me’ moment.

On the first day of the journey, we were asked what being on an expedition really means. 'Expecting the unexpected,' someone said, and another mentioned 'flexibility.' When we woke up this morning, we truly understood the meaning of expedition. During the night, there had been an 'iceberg factory explosion,' as our Canadian captain put it. The glacier we had anchored at, at a safe distance, had calved, completely transforming the landscape compared to how it looked when we went to bed. Icebergs bobbed in the water, more and more ice forming around us during breakfast, drifting away from the glacier with the current. According to the adventurous plans of our guides, today we were supposed to make a landing, climbing along a glacier to enjoy the view from there. Most likely, we are among the few to have ever set foot here. We were ready – adventure was calling.

The cold hit us as we stood facing the glacier, and in the other direction, a breathtaking view opened up with scattered glaciers and enormous mountain ranges. Is this the grandeur of Greenland and Sermilik? To be in a place where few others have been – a true privilege. Silence, stillness, and the magical wilderness surround us. Thunderous rumbles echo through the fjord; something is happening with the glacier across the bay. We stand by what is called a 'dead' glacier, no longer reaching the sea. We can touch it and feel the cold through our skin. A quiet moment settles in, sitting with the glacier's cold caress on our necks and the warmth of the sun on our faces. The view is dazzling. We are truly in the heart of our grand experience.

In these waters, we are adventurers! We explore uncharted areas and make landings that few have experienced. I feel overwhelmed by the greatness and power of nature; here in Greenland, it’s more palpable than ever. As the old saying goes: 'When you have travelled everywhere, there is always Greenland..' 

17 years at PolarQuest – what has kept you engaged all these years?

– PolarQuest is an extraordinary company – our trips, the great nature experiences, and the opportunity to offer people something truly memorable. Constantly striving to deliver a little more than expected is also an important driving force. It's hard to beat the feeling of receiving fantastic feedback after a trip –it's then we know we have succeeded! Moreover, every expedition is unique, just like every traveller. Everyone brings their own experiences home.

Working with a knowledgeable and dedicated team is also very rewarding to me. It’s a few of us who have worked together for a long time, and our team is fenomenal! Both the on shore and off shore staff.The industry we work in, the polar travel industry, is small globally, and here PolarQuest is helping to drive the development forward. It's something I'm proud to be a part of.

From internship to Managing Director – tell us about your journey within the company

– Yes, I started at PolarQuest as an intern in 2007, as part of my education to become a travel producer. When M/S Quest joined the fleet, there was a need for more staff, and I was lucky enough to become part of the team. I have worked extensively with destinations such as Svalbard, Antarctica, and the Subantarctic Islands of New Zealand, and participated in several PolarQuest trips. When the company changed ownership, we moved it into a new era. I was part of the management team and during the same period I started to represented PolarQuest on the Executive Committee of Association of Arctic Expedition Cruise Operators (AECO). There have been many years of work within AECO and many journeys - not only our expeditions, and travels of a lifetime, but also the company's journey through challenges like COVID and everything in between. 

Originally focusing primarily on the Swedish and British markets, today we welcome travellers from all over the world on our expedition cruises. When it comes to delivering experiences, our products are of premium quality. We are all proud of the brand we have nurtured and developed over the years, and which we continue to advance.

Is there any particular memory you would like to highlight?

- The first time I had the opportunity to experience Svalbard and really understood what an expedition cruise meant. I travelled with a group of PolarQuest guests and an experienced guide with extensive knowledge of the area and history of Svalbard.

Being introduced to the real ‘here and now’ that the Svalbard wilderness still offers was something very special. So was being woken up in the middle of the night to come up on deck and enjoy viewing wildlife.

When you travel in a small group, on a small ship, you almost become like a family. At the very least, it feels like a little world you get to visit, with the ship as your home. I remember at the end of the trip trying to figure out where I could hide to stay on board. I really didn’t want it to end, and several of us felt the same way.

Looking ahead, what do you see?

– PolarQuest is celebrating 25 memorable years this year, and I am incredibly grateful for everything we have achieved. I am truly looking forward to continuing to prove that PolarQuest is a reliable tour operator into the future. Conservation of our wilderness will be key also in the future – to coexist on nature’s terms. Of course, we are looking forward to new technology and the opportunity to reduce our CO2 emissions. We are working hard to refine our processes and do everything we can to contribute to a more sustainable future.

I also look forward to continuing our trips to fantastic destinations like Greenland, Svalbard, Northern Norway, and Antarctica. New travel arrangements will certainly emerge in the future, but our focus will always be on offering the best nature experiences in the colder regions of our planet. 

Last but not least, I am really looking forward to all the feedback from our travellers – for me, that's the best part!

Day 1 – Wednesday 21 August

Our journey began in style in Reykjavik, with a luxurious ride in a Mercedes minibus equipped with a panoramic roof that made us feel like we were gliding through the landscape. Filled with anticipation and in good company, we took off on time and were greeted by an incredibly beautiful approach to Kulusuk. From the small airport, we walked to our waiting Zodiac, and after a short ride, we boarded our ship, where we were greeted by our guides, Nilla and Henry. The chef had prepared a delicious three-course dinner and a glass of champagne. The day ended with a colourful sunset.

Day 2 – Thursday 22 August

In the morning, we skillfully navigated around the southern side of Ammassalik Island and entered the magnificent Sermilik Fjord. In the afternoon, we made a landing in Johan Petersen Fjord, where we enjoyed a fantastic hike, with stranded icebergs scattered along the shoreline. When we returned on board, Captain Kim took us on a magical journey deep into Johan Petersen Fjord (known as Qeertartivatsaap Kangertiva in Greenlandic), where we anchored for the night. The sauna was ready, and both Captain Kim and Karolina took a refreshing dip in the mirror-like sea, while the sun slowly set over the horizon – a day to remember!

Day 3 – Friday 23 August

The day began with a spectacular view of the mighty glacier front, surrounded by icebergs of all sizes gently floating by. After breakfast, we set off on a challenging hike to the top of Immikkeertiajik, where we were rewarded with a panoramic view over the glacier. After lunch, we continued sailing further north into the majestic Sermilik Fjord and anchored for the night in the midst of a world of icebergs – a dreamy place that will forever remain in our hearts.

Day 4 – Saturday 24 August

In the morning, we paid a visit to an archaeological site on the western shores of Sermilik fjord. The disused village of Umiattuartivit offered a selection of three sod house remains, which gave us a wonderful insight into how the Inuit lived around a hundred years ago. After lunch, we made our way deeper into Sermilik, aiming for the mystical Helheim Glacier. There were cheers on board as we sailed into the mouth of Sermilik Fjord, with Helheim Glacier to our left, Fenris Glacier at the center, and Midgard Glacier to our right. At 66°15', we reached our farthest north, turned around, and continued our journey south with joy in our hearts. The day ended with the ship dropping anchor just around the corner from tomorrow’s destination, the small settlement of Tiniteqilaaq.

Day 5 – Sunday 25 August

After breakfast, we paid a visit to Tiniteqilaq, where we landed and visited the settlement situated right above the ice-packed Sermilik fjord. The eerie silence on a Sunday added to the incredible view over the fjord and its icebergs. During lunch we passed through the narrow and scenic Ikaasatsiaq strait on our way to Kuummiit. The steep mountains with their majestic glaciers offered an incredible view during lunch. Finally, the time had come to see Kuummiut up close, a sight we had previously glimpsed from afar. Some of us had beautiful encounters with the locals and captured unforgettable moments on camera. We hiked up to a plateau for a magnificent view! After another delicious lunch, we sailed through the Ikassaq Passage and anchored for the night outside Ikatoq village. By popular demand, Nilla shared photos and stories from her time in East Greenland. We slept soundly until Henry knocked on our doors to view the magical Northern Lights.

Day 6 – Monday 26 August

Today, we set out to explore the former American base, Bluie East Two, at the historic site of Ikateq. It was fascinating to learn that there were once over 200,000 barrels there. Now, it resembles something out of a Mad Max series. Sailing through Ammassalik Fjord, we kept our eyes peeled for whales and were rewarded with sightings of both humpback and minke whales. We anchored for the night in King Oscar's Harbor just outside Tasiilaq, where Allan and Exy, who had impressed us with their culinary skills throughout the journey, surprised us with a BBQ in the sunshine – a delight for everyone!

1. The largest species in the dolphin family

The orca is a toothed whale and the largest member of the Delphinidae family, which also includes the species we commonly refer to as dolphins.

2. Social creatures

Orcas are highly social animals that live in pods – complex and well-organized groups. These groups can consist of up to 40 individuals.

3. Educating each other

Orcas educate each other, passing down knowledge and behaviors necessary for survival in the ocean from generation to generation. They have a very stable social structure, and an individual often remains in the same pod for their entire life.

4. Different dialects

Each orca family has its own unique dialect, allowing them to distinguish themselves from others and communicate effectively during hunting and social interactions.

5. High intelligence

Orcas are known for their high intelligence and problem-solving abilities, which they utilize when hunting in groups. In fact, they have the second-largest brain of all marine animals when comparing brain mass to body size.

6. Long lifespan

The average lifespan of female orcas is around 50 years, but there are examples of them reaching up to 90 years of age. Males live up to 40 years.

7. Reproduction

A female orca becomes sexually mature between 8-10 years of age, but she does not have her first calf until she is around 14 years old. Males reach sexual maturity later, sometimes not until they are 16 years old. An adult female can have a calf every three years, but the average is one calf every eight years.

8. Uses echolocation

Orcas use echolocation to locate and identify objects around them in the water by emitting sound waves that bounce back. This helps them navigate and hunt in dark or murky waters.

9. Apex predators

Orcas are apex predators, meaning they are at the top of the food chain and have no natural enemies.

10. Cosmopolitan animals

Orcas are found in all the world's oceans, from the Arctic and Antarctic waters to tropical seas. Approximately 1,500 orcas are found off the coast of Norway, but the total number in the world's oceans is unknown.

Would you also like the chance to see orcas?

Join us on an exciting journey on board the small expedition ship M/S Stockholm. We will explore the deep fjords of northern Norway outside Alta, where groups of humpback whales and orcas typically gather in search of the large herring shoals. At the same time, we hope to experience the majestic Northern Lights.

Read more about the trip:

Whales and Northern Lights in Northern Norway 2024

Sources: WWF, National Geographic, Science Magazine, Whale and Dolphin Conservation

The buildings were also used again by scientists during the International Polar Year of 2007/2008. The research focused on the glaciology of the local ice caps, Vestfonna and Austfonna, as well as local environmental pollution, the effects of climate change on the local ecosystem, and other topics.

For each activity, guests can choose which walk or activity they want to join. The duration or distance of the walk often remains a mystery until it's over, as the group will need to adjust to the pace of the slowest member. This is why there are typically 3 to 4 walking options available on land. The 'long walk,' also known as the 'attack group,' focuses more on the hike itself than on photography. The 'medium hike' group may visit the same places as the long walk but takes more time, allowing for more photography along the way. Lastly, the 'short hike,' often called the 'poetry group,' takes a slower pace, spending time at a hut, exploring plants, or strolling along the beach, with the terrain being relatively easy to walk.

With the group that chose the long walk, we set off across the well-formed elevated beaches and along ridges filled with Svalbard's oldest fossils, including Stromatolites. We continued to the top of Kinnberget, which stands at 128 meters high, offering a stunning view over Murchinsonfjorden and Oddneset. We took our time to rest and soak in the beautiful scenery.

On the way back, we made a small loop and took the time to stop and explore the buildings of Kinnvika. In addition to large barracks with multiple sleeping quarters, we found an observatory for northern lights research and a full workshop with a garage. There was even a sauna (unfortunately closed for viewing)—after all, they are Swedes and Finns! We also came across an old amphibious vehicle, which caught the interest of several men in the group.

Overall, we spent about 3 hours on land, enjoying both the walk and the rich history. It's great to know that this landing site will remain open in the future, allowing more people to experience this unique and historic location.al place