What does a day on expedition in Northern Norway really look like? The simple answer is that no two days are ever the same. We are on an expedition cruise where the weather, light and wildlife shape each day. Perhaps the whales have moved further into a fjord overnight, or the conditions allow us to launch the Zodiacs – and when darkness falls, the Northern Lights might suddenly have us leaving the dinner table and rushing out on deck.
We never know exactly what the day will bring, but it could look something like this.
Breakfast and the day’s plans
We start the morning by enjoying breakfast together in M/S Stockholm’s welcoming dining room. Before it is time to head outside, the Expedition Leader goes through the plan for the day – a plan that can always change depending on the weather and wildlife.
After breakfast, we dress for the day’s conditions, knowing that we may spend long periods standing still and keeping watch. This time of year, the light changes quickly. In mid-October, the sun is still above the horizon from morning until well into the afternoon, while the days are considerably shorter by late November. But even when the sun remains below the horizon, the middle of the day can offer beautiful twilight.
Keeping watch in the fjords
With only 12 passengers on board, there is plenty of space to keep watch from the outer decks. We slowly make our way through the enchanting fjord landscape. Although our main aim is to encounter some of the ocean’s giants, simply standing by the railing and taking in the dramatic surroundings is an experience in itself. The mountain peaks are often dusted with snow, while the sky shifts between soft shades of grey, golden light, warm pink and deep blue. Modern life rarely gives us the opportunity to be completely present in the moment, but here there are few distractions and the hours seem to slip by unnoticed.
Perhaps an orca glides alongside the ship, or we catch sight of a humpback whale breaking the surface and revealing its magnificent tail fluke. Encountering these remarkable animals at close range is something truly special.
Warmth and companionship in the lounge
The ship’s lounge feels more like someone’s living room, with coffee always available and delicious pastries served from time to time. It is the perfect place to warm up or simply spend time with your fellow passengers. The bridge is also open to visitors, and you are always welcome to stop by and say hello to the captain, or simply take a seat and enjoy the scenery as the ship navigates through the narrow fjords.
Zodiac cruising and exciting encounters
When weather conditions are favourable, there may be an opportunity to launch the two Zodiacs. This gives us a completely different perspective and, with a bit of luck, we may experience orcas at close range. These incredible animals are much larger than one might imagine when only seeing a dorsal fin breaking the surface.
Orcas often travel in pods, and watching them ride the waves, play and occasionally leap from the water near our small Zodiac can make you feel very small in the presence of the ocean and its magnificent inhabitants.
Afternoon on board and ashore
In the afternoon, there is often time to relax in your cabin or settle into the lounge for a drink or to read a book. One of the guides may also give an inspiring lecture.
Once we have anchored for the night, there may be an opportunity to go ashore and take a walk through one of the small communities along our route. Sometimes, longer hikes are also arranged for those who wish to join.
Gathering around the dinner table
After a day filled with experiences, it is nice to settle into the ship’s dining room, where a three-course dinner awaits. With only 12 passengers, everyone can dine together, adding to the warm and intimate atmosphere on board. Dinner is a natural time to reflect on the day – perhaps a special whale encounter, an exciting Zodiac cruise or something else that made a lasting impression.
In search of the Northern Lights
The day is not over just because dinner has come to an end. Outside the windows, darkness has settled over the fjords and, when the skies are clear, all eyes turn upwards in anticipation of perhaps the evening’s most eagerly awaited spectacle – the Northern Lights.
Sometimes, simply stepping out on deck is enough to witness this natural phenomenon, while on other evenings we may head out for a walk. The guides help us find a good spot with an unobstructed view of the sky, where we can wait and hope for the green lights to begin dancing above the fjords and mountains.
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© Christian Engelke -
© Erik Edvardsson -
© Christian Engelke -
© Christian Engelke -
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© Erik Edvardsson -
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© Ann-Charlotte Rohdin -
© Lillemor Främberg -
© Peter Pousard -
© Peter Pousard -
© Erik Edvardsson -
© Beau Pruneau -
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© Christian Engelke -
© Christian Engelke