Day 1 – Wednesday 21 August

Our journey began in style in Reykjavik, with a luxurious ride in a Mercedes minibus equipped with a panoramic roof that made us feel like we were gliding through the landscape. Filled with anticipation and in good company, we took off on time and were greeted by an incredibly beautiful approach to Kulusuk. From the small airport, we walked to our waiting Zodiac, and after a short ride, we boarded our ship, where we were greeted by our guides, Nilla and Henry. The chef had prepared a delicious three-course dinner and a glass of champagne. The day ended with a colourful sunset.

Day 2 – Thursday 22 August

In the morning, we skillfully navigated around the southern side of Ammassalik Island and entered the magnificent Sermilik Fjord. In the afternoon, we made a landing in Johan Petersen Fjord, where we enjoyed a fantastic hike, with stranded icebergs scattered along the shoreline. When we returned on board, Captain Kim took us on a magical journey deep into Johan Petersen Fjord (known as Qeertartivatsaap Kangertiva in Greenlandic), where we anchored for the night. The sauna was ready, and both Captain Kim and Karolina took a refreshing dip in the mirror-like sea, while the sun slowly set over the horizon – a day to remember!

Day 3 – Friday 23 August

The day began with a spectacular view of the mighty glacier front, surrounded by icebergs of all sizes gently floating by. After breakfast, we set off on a challenging hike to the top of Immikkeertiajik, where we were rewarded with a panoramic view over the glacier. After lunch, we continued sailing further north into the majestic Sermilik Fjord and anchored for the night in the midst of a world of icebergs – a dreamy place that will forever remain in our hearts.

Day 4 – Saturday 24 August

In the morning, we paid a visit to an archaeological site on the western shores of Sermilik fjord. The disused village of Umiattuartivit offered a selection of three sod house remains, which gave us a wonderful insight into how the Inuit lived around a hundred years ago. After lunch, we made our way deeper into Sermilik, aiming for the mystical Helheim Glacier. There were cheers on board as we sailed into the mouth of Sermilik Fjord, with Helheim Glacier to our left, Fenris Glacier at the center, and Midgard Glacier to our right. At 66°15', we reached our farthest north, turned around, and continued our journey south with joy in our hearts. The day ended with the ship dropping anchor just around the corner from tomorrow’s destination, the small settlement of Tiniteqilaaq.

Day 5 – Sunday 25 August

After breakfast, we paid a visit to Tiniteqilaq, where we landed and visited the settlement situated right above the ice-packed Sermilik fjord. The eerie silence on a Sunday added to the incredible view over the fjord and its icebergs. During lunch we passed through the narrow and scenic Ikaasatsiaq strait on our way to Kuummiit. The steep mountains with their majestic glaciers offered an incredible view during lunch. Finally, the time had come to see Kuummiut up close, a sight we had previously glimpsed from afar. Some of us had beautiful encounters with the locals and captured unforgettable moments on camera. We hiked up to a plateau for a magnificent view! After another delicious lunch, we sailed through the Ikassaq Passage and anchored for the night outside Ikatoq village. By popular demand, Nilla shared photos and stories from her time in East Greenland. We slept soundly until Henry knocked on our doors to view the magical Northern Lights.

Day 6 – Monday 26 August

Today, we set out to explore the former American base, Bluie East Two, at the historic site of Ikateq. It was fascinating to learn that there were once over 200,000 barrels there. Now, it resembles something out of a Mad Max series. Sailing through Ammassalik Fjord, we kept our eyes peeled for whales and were rewarded with sightings of both humpback and minke whales. We anchored for the night in King Oscar's Harbor just outside Tasiilaq, where Allan and Exy, who had impressed us with their culinary skills throughout the journey, surprised us with a BBQ in the sunshine – a delight for everyone!

1. The largest species in the dolphin family

The orca is a toothed whale and the largest member of the Delphinidae family, which also includes the species we commonly refer to as dolphins.

2. Social creatures

Orcas are highly social animals that live in pods – complex and well-organized groups. These groups can consist of up to 40 individuals.

3. Educating each other

Orcas educate each other, passing down knowledge and behaviors necessary for survival in the ocean from generation to generation. They have a very stable social structure, and an individual often remains in the same pod for their entire life.

4. Different dialects

Each orca family has its own unique dialect, allowing them to distinguish themselves from others and communicate effectively during hunting and social interactions.

5. High intelligence

Orcas are known for their high intelligence and problem-solving abilities, which they utilize when hunting in groups. In fact, they have the second-largest brain of all marine animals when comparing brain mass to body size.

6. Long lifespan

The average lifespan of female orcas is around 50 years, but there are examples of them reaching up to 90 years of age. Males live up to 40 years.

7. Reproduction

A female orca becomes sexually mature between 8-10 years of age, but she does not have her first calf until she is around 14 years old. Males reach sexual maturity later, sometimes not until they are 16 years old. An adult female can have a calf every three years, but the average is one calf every eight years.

8. Uses echolocation

Orcas use echolocation to locate and identify objects around them in the water by emitting sound waves that bounce back. This helps them navigate and hunt in dark or murky waters.

9. Apex predators

Orcas are apex predators, meaning they are at the top of the food chain and have no natural enemies.

10. Cosmopolitan animals

Orcas are found in all the world's oceans, from the Arctic and Antarctic waters to tropical seas. Approximately 1,500 orcas are found off the coast of Norway, but the total number in the world's oceans is unknown.

Would you also like the chance to see orcas?

Join us on an exciting journey on board the small expedition ship M/S Stockholm. We will explore the deep fjords of northern Norway outside Alta, where groups of humpback whales and orcas typically gather in search of the large herring shoals. At the same time, we hope to experience the majestic Northern Lights.

Read more about the trip:

Whales and Northern Lights in Northern Norway 2024

Sources: WWF, National Geographic, Science Magazine, Whale and Dolphin Conservation

We had lunch while at anchor and started getting ready for the afternoon excursion. We got into the suits and off we went towards Skrikholmane where there were at least 50 odd walrus hauled out on the low lying islets.

After cruising in the slow swell we arrived at the islands. The animals were of every size and age, seemingly a female group. There were young of varying ages without any tusks. The light was beautiful and made the walrus glow in the sunlight. The mothers were lying at the water ’ s edge with their young and as elegant as only a walrus can be they went in and out of the water.

Please note: Depending on the lens used for a photo or video shot an animal may appear to be closer than it is. We always follow strict wildlife guidelines to ensure that we do not cause any disturbance.

My view to the west was once occupied by Eric the red. A Viking of note. As history has recorded, the first to settle here, and to name this green land.

Of those who travelled with him, not many men and women survived the journey. A few of their animals did. Animals to provide food – meat and milk. Wool for clothing. The origins of a herd that would last four centuries until their masters returned to the land from which they came.

A small ship brought me here – along with a dozen or so friendly souls. A ship not much larger than which Eric sailed in. Our ship, however, has the benefit of a modern engine, a steel hull that can withstand ice and a crew to care for us.

Our morning smells of garlic and steamed rice. Philippine scents. We fish, catch cod for lunch and pass by rich farmland full of sheep and dairy where, in the north, we saw only tundra and fireweed. Evidence of reindeer and musk ox. Little more. Of the people that were here before the Norsemen came, more later. To be brief about the first settlers would be disrespectful. Their lives demand libraries, not blogs. And yet, I will write of them in time. Their world – centuries of adapting to a world where ice is the norm.

Their ocean gives evidence of life in abundance. Fins in their hundreds. Blowing in the soft late evening light as gulls and skua abound. Their world, changing more rapidly than we can imagine, only serves to alarm us to our presence and our effects.

We are witness to this change, and as such, we are fortunate indeed to be in this place – a place to which we will return and to which we will bring others to tell the story of this green land.

Strolling through the tundra on shore at Gjertsenodden we compared it to a national forest, the ground was covered with Mountain Avens, Moss Campion, mosses and lichens. And Reindeerscat. We didn’t have to look long before we spotted the offenders...As we stood quietly watching and taking photographs, the small group of reindeers came closer and closer. With next to no enemy, they are very relaxed and sometimes curious.It was wonderful to watch them graze every Moss Campion clean of their pink flowers, like lawn movers, as they peacefully walked past us.

Please note: Depending on the lens used for a photo or video shot an animal may appear to be closer than it is. We always follow strict wildlife guidelines to ensure that we do not cause any disturbance.