The captain set a course for the northwest corner of Spitsbergen and we headed as far north as the pack ice would allow. In Magdalenefjorden we launched the ship's five rubber boats. Each has room for about ten guests. We then slowly travelled among the scattered ice floes. The weather was wonderful, windless with bright sunshine, and sparkling white snow covering the pointed mountains around us. A group of harp seals "popped" up and down and peered curiously at us while we looked back at them just as curiously. In addition, we saw about twenty of the 'tooth-walking horses of the sea'. Yes, that's how you can choose to translate the scientific name of the walrus: Odbenus rosmarus. The full-grown males weigh over 1.5 tons and get meter-long tusks. However, they looked peaceful resting on the ice floes. Observing these enormous creatures up close was truly a special experience.

But it wasn't just different seals that brightened up our trip. The guides' tireless scouting paid off and we had the opportunity to study the "King of the Arctic" in its proper environment. The first polar bear wandered curiously along the ice edge and stood up on its hind legs and looked out over the sea. Was it possibly the swimming ringed seal that the bear got a whiff of? To our eyes, however, it looked like the polar bear was waving to us. The second bear was spotted in the distance as it walked with determined steps further away over a mountain ridge. The third bear we encountered was a young female who put on an incredible show. We watched her jump from the ice into the water, then she dived under the ice and stuck her head through various holes like a seal and repeated her "game" several times. We had the privilege of enjoying the bear's company for a good while before continuing our journey further into the fjord.

 

We explored more fjords and it was like gliding around an art gallery as we admired the beautiful blue glaciers and their associated icebergs.

But the adventure was not yet over. Just when we thought we had seen it all, we came across another polar bear chasing a Svalbard reindeer off a cliff. The bear threw itself after the reindeer, which tried to escape into the sea, but the bear was right behind it.

The polar bear made the suffering short for the reindeer and then dragged it onto the beach where it quickly ate selected parts of the animal's body. Soon a small white arctic fox appeared, also wanting to have a share. However, the bear did not seem too amused by the fox and chased it away along the beach, but as soon as the bear turned back towards its prey, the fox raced after it. Which made it look like the little fox was chasing the big bear.

Being part of this extraordinary trip to Svalbard was a privilege. We felt privileged to be able to experience the wonders of nature at such close quarters. Midnight sun, polar plunge, polar bears, walruses, icebergs, king eiders, reindeers, polar foxes and the wonderful atmosphere on board gave us memories for life. This trip offered an insight into the fascinating environments of the Arctic and several of the group were affected by the 'polar bug'. This means that there is a constant desire to return to these barren, wild and magnificent places.

Humpback Whale

Despite its clumsy appearance, the humpback whale is surprisingly agile. It is known for its high jumps that often place the entire 30-ton body above the water surface. A fully grown humpback whale measures about 15 meters and its remarkably long front fins of six meters allow it to maneuver easily in the water. The humpback whale belongs to the baleen whale species, which means it has a baleen instead of teeth. It is a comb-like organ used to filter food such as krill and small fish from the water. The name humpback whale comes from the small bumps that are located on the head, pectoral fins and lower jaw. The nodules are reshaped hair follicles that are often covered in barnacles. There is a large hump on its back, hence the name humpback whale. The humpback whale is also known for its song. Each male has its own song and sings mainly during the mating season. The humpback whale is a very good swimmer and moves between the colder waters at the poles in the summer and the more tropical ones closer to the equator in the winter. In a year, it can swim up to 16,000 kilometers. The humpback is the whale that you have the best chance of seeing in Disko Bay.

Minke Whale

The minke whale is a relatively small whale that can be up to 10 meters long. Like the humpback whale, it is a baleen whale, which means it has a comb-like organ instead of teeth. Its fins and belly have distinct white markings, making it easy to identify. Minke whales can be seen in the fjords and along the south and west coast of Greenland. The best period to see it is between May and October. At regular intervals it comes to the surface to get air and if you are lucky you can see it jump. Most commonly, however, you’ll see the fin or a blowout.

Fin Whale

The fin whale is the world's second largest mammal, only the blue whale is larger. It can be up to 27 meters long and weigh close to 100 tonnes. You have a chance to see the fin whale in the area around Uummannaq and in Disko Bay, but it can also be seen both further north and south. The fin whale has an incredible lung capacity and can dive for up to 20 minutes at a depth of 100-200 meters. It rarely shows its tail fin when it dives, but if you're lucky you can see it stop at the surface and make an about eight-meters-high blowout. Behind the dorsal fin stretches a ridge that has given the fin whale its nickname ”razorback”.

Bowhead Whale

The bowhead whale is the longest living mammal on earth and some are said to live for over 200 years. With its 100 tons, it is also one of the world's heaviest whale species and with its large body it can break through the thick sea ice. The bowhead whale's blubber layer can be up to 75 centimeters thick and this helps it to live in colder waters. Another thing that distinguishes the bowhead whale is its huge arched mouth, the tongue alone weighs as much as an elephant. You have the best chance of seeing this gigantic prehistoric animal near Qeqertarsuaq on Disko Island. The best time is until the edge of spring around the month of April.

Pilot Whale

The pilot whale belongs to the oceanic dolphin family. Of the thirty or so species that exist, the pilot whale is the second largest, only the killer whale exceeds it in size. It is a social species that lives in groups of ten to hundreds of animals. Each group is believed to have a leader, hence the name pilot whale. The pilot whale has a robust body and a distinctive dorsal fin and can dive as deep as 600 meters. There are many reports worldwide of mass strandings of pilot whales. One theory as to why they swim into shallow water and get stuck is that if one whale gets sick, the whole pack swims in to keep it afloat. Another theory is that the magnetic fields outside the beaches are different and cause the whales to navigate incorrectly. Pilot whales use echo sounds to investigate the water and possible obstacles, and on a sandy beach the sound doesn't bounce back and reveal land until it's too late.

John Klevsäter

What is your role on board M/S Stockholm?
I am a chef.

How many seasons have you worked?
This will be my second season. I started in the middle of summer last year up in Svalbard.

How did you come to apply for this job?
It was by a coincidence. I was invited to an old captain's house for coffee. He had a contact at M/S Stockholm and asked if I was interested in going to Svalbard. Within five minutes, I had accepted the offer! It was mainly the challenge of being the only chef on board that attracted me, and I saw an opportunity to grow enormously in my professional role. I have always worked seasonally, eight-to-five jobs are not for me.

Do you have a similar experience from working on a boat before?
My father is a captain. He is actually the captain on board M/S Stockholm this season, it was discovered after I accepted the job so it was a bit funny. I have been allowed to go with him on his trips since I was five years old, to South America, the Amazon, Panama and remote Indian villages, among other places. I am a born adventurer - can't sit still! For a few seasons, I worked in the fishing industry in Northern Norway, and then lived the rest of the year in India. I had never been to Svalbard before I joined M/S Stockholm last year, so it was a new experience.

How do you plan a menu at sea?
It’s up to each chef to set his menu, you have complete freedom there. For me, it’s important that the guests have a fantastic culinary experience. I do my best to vary the meals according to the resources available.

What does "a normal working day" look like for you on board?
I’m the first one to get up in the morning, and the last one to go to bed in the evening. Often, I get up around 05.30 AM and do some yoga training on outer deck. I like to go out into the cold and remind myself of where I am. I swim in the sea almost every day. Then I start with breakfast. The guests will wake up to the smell of freshly baked bread. After lunch there may be some free time, then I may sleep for an hour to be alert in the evening. Sometimes, if I have freed up time, I join the guests in the Zodiac. In the afternoon, I prepare a three-course dinner that is served around 7 PM. After that, it's mostly washing up dishes.

The work environment is incredible. If you work ashore, you are used to standing and looking into the tile. Here you might see large ice floes, dolphins, walruses and whales passing by.

What are your expectations for this season?
I hope for both personal and professional development. Learn even more and take cooking to another level.

Will you work the whole season or go home in between?
I will be working the whole season. But we have a schedule of six weeks on and six weeks off, so there will be a lot of time at home as well. I am in the process of building a house on Gotland, so this type of job suits me well, as it allows me to free up time for that as well. From November to March, I am completely free from work. Then there is room for growth in other ways, maybe take some courses and tinker with other projects. I like that you get some energy and time for other things.

Do you have family at home?
I have my girlfriend on Gotland. Of course, it's hard to be apart, but I still think it's good for couples to be away from each other sometimes. It’s for good and bad, but we have chosen to focus on the positive.

What is it like to work as a chef in such a truly unique environment like the Arctic?
Svalbard is really the "end station of the world" in terms of resources and you have very limited assets. There is only one store in Longyearbyen and you have to be at least ten days ahead when it comes to orders. It's not like when I worked in Visby, on the island of Gotland, and you could just throw off your apron and run to the grocery store if you needed something. Meat, fish and everything that can be frozen is packed from Sweden to last the whole season. There is a lot to think about, how much is used and how much can fit on board? It's important not to forget anything, if there's no coffee on board for ten days you won´t be popular. 

The powers of the weather also make it very special to work on board. As a chef, you must work even if it's windy and you are feeling a bit seasick, since you are alone in your position. We always have a standby, but it takes time for that person to get there and it’s also costly.

How does it feel to be "disconnected" from the world?
It's an amazing feeling. It’s incredibly rare that you get to experience this kind of life in today's connected society. It’s also an experience to be able to socialize in silence on board. It gives a peace of mind not knowing what’s happening all the time. As soon as we enter Longyearbyen, you see how everyone hides behind their phones. For me, the day we get to Longyearbyen after ten days at sea is the absolute most stressful. There is a lot to do with provisions and I hardly have time to make a call.

How would you describe the atmosphere on board?
I feel lucky to be on this boat, it’s a great bunch of people. The atmosphere is beyond expectation, I must say, considering the "micro world" you live in on board. Sometimes a bit of drama unfolds, but everyone still takes responsibility for spreading good vibes. As a chef you also get a close relationship with the guests, and I encourage everyone who wants to come down to the kitchen and hang out and talk. Sometimes real friendships develop. I have actually been invited to people's homes both in Alaska and Mexico.

How does it feel to have dad as captain?
It feels great! I just have to take it impersonally and remember that "captain's word is law". But we love each other very much so I'm looking forward to working together, and he's a damn good captain too.

Do you have a funny anecdote that you want to share?
I take a swim almost every day. Imagine the guests sitting there in their survival vests and they get to see the chef come down and take a dip. After five or six days, I can usually persuade them to come along. Some Texans or others who come from the south may never have swum in water below 20 degrees. For them, immersing the body in the freezing cold waters of the Arctic it can be a shocking experience. But then they can at least brag about having swum close to the North Pole!

 

Lillbritt Karlsson

What is your role on board M/S Stockholm?
I'm a chief cook.

For how many seasons have you been working on board?
In total, I have been eight seasons aboard M/S Stockholm, with a few years off. The first season was in 2008. This year my role is to provision the boat for the season. I then work six weeks in the spring and six weeks in the autumn.

What is your professional background?
Basically, I'm a natural scientist and a cook. After a few years in the restaurant industry, I have alternated between different jobs on boats, including in the merchant fleet, on school ships and research ships. I have also run my own vegan restaurant and has been employed by the municipality as section manager for the dietary unit during the covid period.

How did you end up at M/S Stockholm?
That I ended up in the Arctic is a coincidence. I did my basic safety training with the crew on M/S Stockholm and thought it sounded interesting to work on board in such a unique environment and registered my interest.

What does a "normal working day" look like on board?
My working day starts at 7 AM and lasts until the dessert has been served in the evening, usually around 9 PM. After lunch I make sure to get a couple of hours to rest.

How do you plan a menu at sea?
I plan the meals according to the conditions we have on board, which means that fresh produce is limited. We can stock up in Longyearbyen, but the store there is mainly for serving the residents, which means that we don't always get what we order. The menu will be based on what we provisioned in Gothenburg, it does not change over the season, but I still try to create variety according to the food we have on board. The boat has limited space, so the challenge is to get the menu without fresh produce. We bake everything on board to save space and besides, freshly baked smells homely.

How does it feel to be "disconnected" from the rest of the world?
I think it’s a great advantage to not be connected, it gives peace of mind. All loved ones understand my work situation when I'm on board, and I'm more present when I'm home!

How would you describe the atmosphere on board?
Working so closely together can be a challenge, but we are all busy with our jobs on board so it usually flows well. The guests also bring new energy and make us not forget what a magically beautiful nature we have at our workplace.

Do you have a funny memory that you want to share?
There is often a jubilee among the guests. I remember a woman who was celebrating her 70th birthday and her husband had requested a special cake decorated with different seabirds in marzipan. Due to lack of space, the cake had to be placed in the front room where it’s cool. While I was resting for lunch, it blew up and the cake was thrown against the bulkhead. It became a form of sticky berry and cream installation with some deformed marzipan birds on it. A little embarrassed, I served the creation. I think the cake was the most photographed thing during the expedition.

Disko Bay is the most visited place in Greenland, and it's easy to understand why. It is an almost overwhelming sight to cruise amongst icebergs that rise up to 100 meters above sea level. It is Ilulissat’s four-mile-long ice fjord that opens into the bay and brings a stream of shiny icebergs in all shapes and forms. The shades of blue, white and turquoise make the landscape almost fairytale-like. Jakobshavn Isbrae, or Sermeq Kujalleq as the Inuit call it, is the world's fastest calving glacier, calving an estimated 40 cubic kilometers of icebergs per year. It was probably an iceberg from this glacier that sank the Titanic. The Ilulissat Icefjord fjord has been on the UNESCO World Heritage List since 2004.

A trip through Disko Bay also offers good opportunities for unforgettable wildlife encounters. In the fjords, walruses, seals and several different whale species are frequently seen (click here to learn more about the whale species you can encounter), and on land you have the chance to meet reindeer, Arctic hares and Arctic foxes.

The villages around the bay are characterized by old traditions and a large part of the population still lives mainly on fishing and hunting.

Ilulissat – the city of icebergs

It is no coincidence that the name Ilulissat means iceberg, considering the surroundings that the city is characterized by. With its 5 000 inhabitants and 2 000 sled dogs, Ilulissat is Greenland's third largest and one of the most well-known towns. The stream of icebergs is what attracts most visitors, but many are also interested in the fascinating culture and history. The unique fishing and hunting opportunities that the ice fjord brought with it created early conditions for settlement. Today, old traditions coexist with a growing modern society. The colourful houses are scattered along the coast, against the background of the mighty glacier. The views are magnificent and there is also a rich wildlife here. Among other things, you have a great chance of seeing whales, birds and seals.

Disko Island – the island´s largest island

Disko Island, the largest island along the coast of Greenland, is nestled in the shimmering Disko Bay. Its lush and volcanic nature provides a striking contrast to the backdrop of sea and shiny icebergs. The environment also offers beautiful walks among unique rock formations, black sand beaches and untouched greenery. According to Greenlandic folklore, the unique flora is due to the fact that the island was once moved here from the south by two kayaking salesmen. A witch's spell is said to have caused it to remain. In fact, it is the presence of hot springs that makes the vegetation richer than in other places at the same latitude. The Greenlandic name for Disko Island is the same as the island's only settlement  – Qeqertarsuag. The small town, with its barely a thousand inhabitants and location on the southern coast of the island, is by many considered to be the most photogenic in Greenland. It is not hard to understand when you see the multi-coloured houses against the mighty red-tinted basalt rock wall. At the top is the Lyngmark glacier, which is covered in snow all year round and offers a wonderful view. Many whales thrive a little extra in this corner of Disko Bay, which makes the experience even more special.

Saqqaq - The sunny side

The Saqqag people are considered to be Greenland's first inhabitants, and archaeological finds testify to habitation here over 4 000 years ago. Today, the small village of Saqqaq on the southern side of the Nuussuaq peninsula has about 200 inhabitants. The name Saqqaq refers to its geographical location, and means precisely the sunny side. It is a well-functioning settlement with shared communal shower and bathhouses and a distinct hunting and fishing culture. Hannibal's House and Garden is a legacy from Hannibal Fencker, who is also popularly called "The King of Saqqaq". His greenhouse was for a long time the world’s northernmost and here he managed to grow subtropical plants such as dates and lemons.

Uummannaq – the heart-shaped outpost

The small town of Uummannaq is located on the island with the same name and is often mentioned in connection to Disko Bay, although it is actually located just above the area. The name Uummannaq comes from the heart-shaped mountain that rises high above the city. There is also an old saying that a small piece of every visitor's heart remains on the island as Uummannaq has the ability to make them long to return. There are ten glaciers in the area, which means that you can simultaneously have hundreds of icebergs within sight. If you're lucky, you can even spot whales. There is a special calm in this outpost, where the town is mainly built on top of rocks. However, you will find most attractions concentrated around the harbour. The big red post box behind the church is eye-catching and it is here that all letters addressed to Father Christmas end up. The hundreds of letters from children around the world are then delivered to his office where students and volunteers help answer and spread Christmas cheer.

Julia Brandberg

What is your role on board M/S Stockholm?
I'm a deckhand.

How many seasons have you worked on board?
This is my second season. I was on board for five months last year.

What is your professional background?
When I was about to start high school, I applied to Öckerö sailing high school as I thought it sounded exciting and I wanted to get out and travel. I did not grow up in a boating family, like many others who have chosen this profession, so the first time I was out on a larger ship was through school. With T/S Gunilla we went on many trips, like sailing across the Atlantic. Since graduation, I have worked on various boats, Stena Line among others.

How did you end up on the M/S Stockholm?
I had a friend who had worked there in previous seasons and thought it sounded interesting. Then Linnéa, who I worked with at Stena Line, knew Magnus Reteike, Captain and owner of M/S Stockholm. So, then I had a contact here. I was tired of ferry life and eager to try something new.

Will you be away for the whole season?
I will be on board for a total of three months. Two months now on the journey along the Norwegian coast and further up to Svalbard. After that I’ll go home for one month and then come back for another month in Svalbard.

What do you do for the rest of the year?
Last year I worked extra on another boat. This winter I have worked at the shipyard with maintenance of M/S Stockholm. In my spare time I make sure to travel as much as possible.

What is it like to work in such an extreme environment as the Arctic?
Very special. It can be very cold, it was a bit shocking when we came up in April last year and it was close to 20 degrees below zero. Tough weather conditions such as snow and rain also affect the daily work. But it’s so cool to experience the nature and wildlife here.

How would you describe a typical working day on board?
Before breakfast, we often prepare the Zodiacs for the day's outings. Then during the day there is a lot of maintenance such as washing things, painting or knocking off rust. Sometimes, if there is time to spare, you can go out with the guests in the Zodiacs. In the evening and at night we mostly keep an eye out, sitting on the bridge with the skipper. Or you may have to go into the machine room and check that everything is working as it should. Sleep can be a challenge as we work in shifts around the clock: work six hours and sleep six hours. Except when we are docked, then everyone except the anchorman gets to sleep during night.

How would you describe the atmosphere on board?
The atmosphere is very good. It's an incredibly lovely crew with both women and men of mixed ages. It's also fun with all the guests.

Isn't it ever hard to live so close to each other for a long time?
No, I wouldn't say. One thing that is nice about M/S Stockholm is that we in the staff have our own mess, so you still have your little free zone if you need to.

How does it feel to be "disconnected" from the world?
It's probably one of the biggest reasons why I enjoy this job so much. You really live in the present. Mum has also started to get used to the fact that I can only call every ten days...

Do you have an extra special memory from last season?
It's all the incredible encounters with animals. Something that was truly special was when we were in Northern Norway and got to see probably 50 humpback whales near the boat. It means so much to the guests when they see that we think it's as much fun as they do. For me it’s at least as exciting as for the traveller who has joined a trip with us.

What are your expectations for this season?
Happy travels and happy guests!

Will there be more seasons for you?
I'll take it as it comes. Maybe I want to have a permanent job in the future, but right now I just want to travel and experience things. And as long as I enjoy it on board, it doesn't feel difficult.

Would you recommend other young women to become sailors?
Absolutely, more women are needed in the profession. There are many prejudices and stereotypes and most people may not think that it’s a profession you can have as a woman. But it is! At M/S Stockholm, we are about 50/50 men and women.

Do you want to follow Julia and M/S Stockholms adventure the upcoming season?

Follow M/S Stockholm on Instagram!

Linnéa Kristensson

What role have you had on board M/S Stockholm?
I have been working as a deckhand.

How many seasons have you been on board?
I was on board for five weeks last year. I had been working in Svalbard before on a tanker boat and this sparked my interest in the polar regions. If you have this profession, you have to go on a boat like this at some point - it's like nothing else. This year I have another job, on a pilot boat in Halland. But I’m still very involved in M/S Stockholm, among other things I manage the Instagram account. And if I want to, I can probably join the ship in my spare time. I may be away for a whole season in a few years when I get tired of just going in and out of ports.

When did you realize that this was the work for you?
My father is a fisherman and drives a pilot boat so it has always been with me. When I was 8 years old and got to accompany him out, I remember thinking: this is the best job I've seen. And it still is. I've always known that this is what I want to do.

What did you work with before joining M/S Stockholm?
I have always worked on boats. I studied to become a sailor in high school and then worked during the summers on various boats. Since then, I have furthered my education and worked both as a deckhand  and mate on for example a tanker, pilot boat and ferry. I tried working two days ashore once, but it wasn't my thing…

What are your duties as a deckhand?
You make sure that the boat is kept in order, both inside and outside. It can be fixing things that have broken and helping with mooring and anchoring. It’s not specifically part of the professional role to take care of the guests, but it’s also a fun part to socialize with them.

Could you please describe a typical working day on board M/S Stockholm?
During the day there is a lot of maintenance on the boat such as grinding, knocking ice. Unexpected things also happen, like once when the refrigerator broke loose and rolled away. At night, you have to take into account that the passengers are sleeping, so then there will be some cleaning, checking the engine, keep an extra lookout for the mate or check that everything is ship-shape.

What is it like to work in an environment like the Arctic?
Very special. It can get extremely cold like once when it was minus 20 and the whole boat got covered in ice. It’s a different experience to stand there and knock ice in this type of climate. But I, like many others, also suffered from the Svalbard bug - you always want to come back. It's a different kind of calmness up there, the stress disappears completely.

How is it to be disconnected for a longer period?
It's a relief. My generation grew up being connected and reachable all the time. Here you can socialize with each other in a different way. It's just us and the boat - here and now.

How would you describe the atmosphere on board?
Very good. We are about 50/50 women and men working on board, of all ages. It is the best combination; on many other boats it’s only old men. My experience is that Stockholm is the ship where you laugh the most and have the most fun together. You also get a close relationship with many guests, which is fun. I've even been invited to some people's homes after we left the boat.

Do you have a special memory you want to share?
There are so many fun memories, we laugh all the time on board. An example was when we entered Longyearbyen and had internet connection for the first time in ten days. One of the guides saw on Facebook that it was his son’s, who also was on the trip, birthday. When we knocked on his cabin to surprise him, he didn't even know it was his birthday. It’s a good example of how you lose time and space.

What would you say to other woman who are curious about the profession?
I recommend everyone to study to become a deckhand, it's a lot of fun! It’s probably one of the most equal professions too, everyone gets the same contract and the same salary.