Below you'll find an excerpt from the expedition cruise with M/S Stockholm to the Orkney and Shetland Islands, 30th April – 11th May 2016.
Friday 6th May - Fair Isle
This small, remote island half-way between Orkney and Shetland has a population of about 70 people, and is owned by the National Trust for Scotland, mainly because of its great importance for seabirds and migratory species. We berthed in North Haven, near the Bird Observatory, and went ashore in lovely spring sunshine to explore this island gem. Fair Isle sheep with their new-born lambs keep the grass immaculately short, and first we investigated Landberg, a 2000-year old promontory fort defended by several banks and ditches, where we sat watching puffins rafting in the bay below and coming to land at their burrows by our feet. Then most of us went for a hike with Adam to the dramatic scenery of the northern part of the island, ending at the 1891 Stevenson lighthouse.
Photo: Adam Rheborg
Photo: Adam Rheborg
After lunch we explored the nooks and crannies of the shoreline by Zodiac, gazing up at ledges full of Common guillemots, Razorbills, Northern Gannets and Northern Fulmars preparing to nest. The rocky waterline revealed Purple sandpipers and Ruddy turnstones, and Grey seals popped their heads above the water to observe us. Then there was time to wander at leisure taking in the evening light, or purchasing some of the famous Fair Isle knitwear at the Observatory.
Traveller Interview: Weronica's Spring Expedition in Svalbard
The dream of the Arctic had long been there, and when Weronica finally decided to join a spring expedition in Svalbard on M/S Quest, her already high expectations were exceeded. In this interview, you can read more about her experiences, what it was like to travel alone, and the feeling of getting really close to nature.
– Yes, this was my first trip to Svalbard. I have been to Lofoten and northern Norway before, so I have experienced the nature to some extent before. But this type of trip, with a ship and landings in the wilderness, was completely new to me.
How did you come up with the idea to go to the Arctic?
– I have wanted to make this trip for a long time. I am fascinated by animals and nature, and the feeling of getting so close to everything was absolutely magical.
How did you prepare for the trip?
– I prepared by participating in and listening to a Zoom meeting with pre deaparture information from PolarQuest. I also did some reading on packing and equipment.
What were your expectations for Svalbard as a destination? Was it as you imagined?
– I didn't really know what to expect, other than that I would experience something I had never experienced before. The trip was fantastic, better than I could have hoped for. The nature and views we saw were absolutely magical. We had brilliant weather, and we also got to see many different animals and had other unforgettable experiences. It's hard to describe in words for those who weren't there.
You travelled as a solo traveller. How was that experience?
– Yes, it was the first time I travelled completely alone without meeting any companions on site, so naturally, I was a bit nervous beforehand. However, I thought that this type of trip attracts people who, like me, are interested in animals and nature, so I believed I would surely meet someone to connect with. And I did – I met several fellow travellers I could 'hang out with'. I wasn't the only one travelling solo, which felt reassuring. I found it worked very well. The staff on board and the guides were very kind and helpful. When you travel alone, you also have a responsibility to be a little extra open and social.
– The moments on the boat were relaxing and pleasant. You could spend your free time on board exactly as you wished. If you wanted to sit and watch the surroundings, the lounge was a very comfortable place to be. The only thing you needed to think about was adhering to the set times for excursions, meals, and similar activities.
What was the best part of the trip?
– The best part of the trip was definitely all the impressions I took home with me. All the different shades of blue – the sky, the sea, and ice in various forms.
Do you have any particularly memorable moments that you would like to share?
– I have several memorable moments. One was when we went out early in the morning to the bird cliff. The sea was 'boiling' with birds scouting for a spot on the rock wall, and as we got closer, we saw how how even the rock was ‘moving’ with all the birds that had already secured a place on the ledge. It was truly magical. Another strong memory is when we cruised with the Zodiac and saw a young female polar bear running along the water's edge. She stopped and began to play while we watched her from a distance. It was a special moment.
Another memory is when we went ashore on Moffen in the middle of the night and saw a group of walruses lounging around. Before that, another group of walruses had scoped us out from the water, absolutely incredible! Besides all the fantastic animal encounters, it was an incredible feeling when the boat cruised between small ice floes that floated freely on the water. The sea looked like a puzzle, and reaching the ice wall was an exciting ending.
Many who visit Svalbard are struck by the so-called 'polar bug,' a longing to return. How was it for you?
- Everything amazing I experienced during this trip has been overwhelming. That's why I'm not sure if I would go again, for fear that it wouldn't feel as special next time.
Weronica postar vykort på jordens nordligast poststation
Please note: Depending on the lens used for a photo or video shot an animal may appear to be closer than it is. We always follow strict wildlife guidelines to ensure that we do not cause any disturbance.
Sedan 1999 har vi arrangerat oförglömliga resor till Svalbard. Från maj till september färdas våra tre små expeditionsfartyg som endast tar 12 och 50 passagerare genom denna arktiska vildmark med gnistrande glaciärer, sagolika fjordlandskap, vidsträckt tundra och dramatiska bergskedjor. Valrossar vilar på stränderna och valar söker efter föda, medan Arktis konung, isbjörnen, majestätiskt vandrar över isarna.
2024 and 2025 are Peak Years for Experiencing the Northern Lights
Do you dream of experiencing the spectacular Northern Lights? Now is the time to plan your adventure. Thanks to a peak in the sun's 11-year cycle of solar activity, 2024 is expected to be one of the best years in a long time to witness the Northern Lights. This period, extending into 2025, is predicted to offer some of the most intense and spectacular auroras seen in years.
We are approaching solar maximum, a period when the Sun’s activity reaches its peak. This phase, which occurs every eleven years, is characterized by an increase in the number of sunspots, solar flares, and other solar activities. During solar maximum, the Sun’s magnetic field also reverses, amplifying the processes that produce spectacular auroras. Therefore, we can expect more frequent and impressive Northern Lights displays during 2024 and 2025.
The Northern Lights' colourful display in the sky is created when electrically charged particles from the Sun, moving at high speed, interact with Earth's magnetic field. These particles are directed towards the poles, where they accelerate and collide with oxygen and nitrogen atoms. These collisions create flashes of light in various colours, which we experience as the aurora. Oxygen atoms primarily emit green light, and occasionally red, while nitrogen produces shades of violet, purple, and blue.
Few places on Earth are as well-suited for witnessing the vibrant display of the Northern Lights as Northern Norway. From our base in Alta, located directly beneath the auroral oval and with minimal light pollution, we offer whales and Northern Lights expeditions to some of the world's premier spots for viewing this phenomenon. On board our small expedition ship M/S Stockholm, we are far from the lights of civilisation, where no distracting light sources obstruct the view. This further increases the chances of having magical Northern Lights experiences.
Did you know that the world's first permanent Northern Lights observatory was built just outside of Alta at the end of the 19th century?
Want the chance to experience the Northern Lights this year?
Join us on an exciting journey in true expedition style on board the small 12-passenger ship M/S Stockholm, a vessel rich in history and character. We’ll explore the deep fjords of Northern Norway outside Alta, taking in enchanting views. As darkness falls, we’ll keep our eyes on the sky, hoping it fills with brushstrokes of majestic Northern Lights. We also hope for unforgettable encounters with orcas and humpback whales, which in recent years have gathered in the area in search of herring.
A successful season in Svalbard has come to an end, leaving so many incredible moments to cherish! Here are just a few highlights, with so much more to share. Huge thanks to our amazing guides and fantastic travellers for making this season unforgettable.
Since 1999, we have taken travellers on once-in-a-lifetime trips to Svalbard. From May to September our three small expedition ships, carrying only 12 and 50 passengers, explore this magnificent Arctic archipelago. Unpredictability and flexibility are the main keywords when you travel with PolarQuest as the exact route depends on weather, ice conditions and wildlife encounters. Sometimes you might be woken up in the middle of the night if a polar bear has been spotted on the ice.
Travellers Blog: West Greenland and Disko Bay
Our bucket-list visit to Greenland was five years in the making, due to the pandemic and the bankruptcy of the original company we booked with. However, we finally made the journey in June 2024. After spending a few days visiting friends in Denmark, we spent one night in Ilulissat and then boarded the 12-passenger ship for a nine-night cruise around the fjords of west Greenland with PolarQuest. We were brilliantly looked after by Captain Maween and guides Dorothee, Karin, and Mia, as well as the excellent catering and engineering crew.
Greenland is enormous, almost twice as large as South Africa but, with a population of only about 57,000, it is the least densely populated country on the planet. More than 80% of the land area is covered with a massive ice sheet which reaches a thickness of 3km in some places. To put the scale of the ice sheet into perspective, it is estimated that it contains enough fresh water to raise global sea levels by 7 meters. Given the vastness of the country, it’s only possible to see a small part of it on a trip like this, and our visit focused on the fjords and small settlements around Ilulissat inside the Arctic Circle on the west coast.
Disko Bay is a classic Greenland destination, but nothing really prepares you for the scale of it. The Ilulissat Icefjord, the most productive in the Northern Hemisphere, releases 35 cubic kilometers of ice into the bay annually, resulting in an incredible array of icebergs, surrounded by massive flocks of sea birds and frolicking whales.
In Qeqertasuaq, we met Danny and Naja with their wonderful Greenland sled dogs, as well as visiting their home for a kaffemik (a traditional open house for coffee and cake). The Greenland dog is considered one of the oldest and 'purest' dog breeds and is related to the wolf. It's likely an important factor in the Thule people's successful migration to this area, and it’s thought that these dogs have been loyal companions for at least 1,000 years. They are incredibly well-adapted, sleeping outside no matter the weather and able to live entirely on a diet of protein and fat. Dog sledding is still the main form of transport over the winter, although sadly, dog numbers are in decline as the sea ice season gets shorter. Only Greenland dogs are permitted inside the Arctic Circle in order to protect their genetic lineage.
Hiking in Greenland is spectacular, and we had a number of opportunities to do short (3-4 km) hikes in remote places, mostly with no marked trails in areas our guides were exploring for the first time. Guide Karin, an expert in Arctic plants, added an extra dimension to the experience, and we even managed some bird-watching.
Glaciers! There is nothing quite like the sights and sounds of a glacier up close – relatively speaking, as you don’t want to get swamped by a wave from a calving iceberg. It’s a special experience to enjoy this from the ship’s deck.
Experience Greenland’s untamed wilderness with the elegant 12-passenger ship M/S Balto, designed to explore the most remote fjord systems, visit isolated Inuit settlements and take you to secret anchorages. Greenland’s spectacular coastline offers some of the most remarkable nature experiences. The Arctic landscape is dominated by ice-filled fjords, majestic peaks and vast tundra.
PolarQuest's Maria Nordvall in the Realm of Icebergs
Finally, the propellers started to rotate, and we ascended through the thick cloud cover over Iceland. As we rose into the air, I was filled with both excitement and anticipation. What would we experience? Unexpectedly, the sun broke through the cloud bank, which suddenly dispersed, revealing our first iceberg, drifting alone in the blue sea. Colourful houses appeared as we caught our first glimpse of Kulusuk. We descended, the plane touched down, and the excitement grew for the amazing Arctic adventure that awaited us in East Greenland.
Icebergs – the raw power of nature. There's something about them that makes it impossible to look away. It's like staring into an open fire, filled with wonder. Each iceberg is unique, both in size and appearance. Sermilik Fjord, where we've been cruising for the past two days, is filled with icebergs the size of houses, which have drifted down from the Helheim Glacier at the far end of the fjord. They vary in shape: large, small, pointed, tabular – each with its own distinct character.
To be classified as an iceberg, it must be at least 15 meters high, and the larger ones can reach over 75 meters. During the winter, the entire fjord is covered by a 4-5 meter thick layer of ice, which cracks open, allowing the ice to drift out with the current.
September is truly a great time to be here; we are privileged to be able to venture deep into the beautiful fjord with our stable ship. We stand on deck, gazing out, letting our thoughts drift in wonder. Smiles adorn everyone's faces. The ship weaves its way between the icebergs, and there's nothing to do but enjoy the spectacle. No one wants to go inside. Is that iceberg really the biggest we've seen? Perhaps. But what’s that over there? We scan from one side to the other, not wanting to miss anything happening on either side of our ice-strengthened ship. I feel so small among these enormous icebergs! The sun beams down, making the sea and ice sparkle. ‘Surreal,’ someone says, and I can’t help but agree – it’s truly a ‘pinch me’ moment.
On the first day of the journey, we were asked what being on an expedition really means. 'Expecting the unexpected,' someone said, and another mentioned 'flexibility.' When we woke up this morning, we truly understood the meaning of expedition. During the night, there had been an 'iceberg factory explosion,' as our Canadian captain put it. The glacier we had anchored at, at a safe distance, had calved, completely transforming the landscape compared to how it looked when we went to bed. Icebergs bobbed in the water, more and more ice forming around us during breakfast, drifting away from the glacier with the current. According to the adventurous plans of our guides, today we were supposed to make a landing, climbing along a glacier to enjoy the view from there. Most likely, we are among the few to have ever set foot here. We were ready – adventure was calling.
The cold hit us as we stood facing the glacier, and in the other direction, a breathtaking view opened up with scattered glaciers and enormous mountain ranges. Is this the grandeur of Greenland and Sermilik? To be in a place where few others have been – a true privilege. Silence, stillness, and the magical wilderness surround us. Thunderous rumbles echo through the fjord; something is happening with the glacier across the bay. We stand by what is called a 'dead' glacier, no longer reaching the sea. We can touch it and feel the cold through our skin. A quiet moment settles in, sitting with the glacier's cold caress on our necks and the warmth of the sun on our faces. The view is dazzling. We are truly in the heart of our grand experience.
In these waters, we are adventurers! We explore uncharted areas and make landings that few have experienced. I feel overwhelmed by the greatness and power of nature; here in Greenland, it’s more palpable than ever. As the old saying goes: 'When you have travelled everywhere, there is always Greenland..'
Experience Greenland’s untamed wilderness with the elegant 12-passenger ship M/S Balto, designed to explore the most remote fjord systems, visit isolated Inuit settlements and take you to secret anchorages. Greenland’s spectacular coastline offers some of the most remarkable nature experiences. The Arctic landscape is dominated by ice-filled fjords, majestic peaks and vast tundra.