Our Svalbard coordinator Heidi has visited Svalbard on several occasions and has joined two of our expedition cruises. The first was aboard M S Quest in May 2018, and most recently she embarked on a magical autumn journey in September 2025 with M S Sjöveien. Read about her experiences below.
We were fortunate with the weather and the incredible light. When we made a landing, the landscape was barren and untouched. Several of the guests described it as how they imagined a landing on the moon would be.
How would you describe Svalbard to someone who has not been there yet?
You are greeted by Spitsbergen even before you land, visible right through the plane window, offering a dramatic and unique view over Isfjorden. It is a place of great contrasts. Even though Longyearbyen is small, it has an international feel to it with a good selection of restaurants and some outdoor shops. At the same time, it is so remote that it can truly feel like the end of the world, especially when the first thing you see is a sign warning about polar bears. The landscape is barren yet full of life, and the nature varies greatly depending on where in Svalbard you are. The weather alone, shifting from brilliant sunshine to snowstorm, can be a fascinating experience for someone who has never encountered anything like it.
When it comes to the food on board, you are truly spoiled.
You travelled in autumn on our final expedition of the season. What is special about visiting Svalbard at this time of year?
Above all, the dramatic light, which reflects beautifully on the mountains and the water. Autumn is known for having less flora, but we were lucky. Even though it was cold and barren, we could still see these beautiful flowers pushing their way up through the frosty ground.
You have travelled during two different seasons. In what ways can a visit during these seasons differ?
In May you are met by a white landscape with snow covered mountains and a lot of ice. Landings may mean walking through deep snow or using snowshoes, and the hikes are often shorter. There may be more zodiac cruises between the ice floes instead, which is also a lovely experience. In May the early birds begin to return and there is a greater chance of seeing polar bears or seals on the ice rather than on land. The weather can be unpredictable both in spring and autumn. In September you see a more barren landscape with some greenery still remaining, even though the first snow starts to settle on the mountain peaks. We can often do slightly longer landings and hikes in September. If you are interested in photography I would say both seasons are fantastic for capturing magical images.
You travelled on our ship Sjöveien. What makes this vessel stand out?
That it is a small ship that still feels spacious. Once on board, the vessel is surprisingly roomy with well designed areas and a sense that there is plenty of space. Sjöveien carries only twelve passengers, which creates a warm and familiar atmosphere together with the fantastic crew. They truly enjoy working with each other and create a welcoming environment that rubs off on us travellers.
You also never go hungry. When it comes to the food on board, you are truly spoiled. Sjöveien even has a jacuzzi, and taking a dip was a wonderful experience. You could go for a polar plunge and then warm up in the jacuzzi with the view of an incredible glacier in the background.
You had to pinch yourself. It was pure joy from beginning to end.
Can you tell us something about the wildlife you encountered during the journey?
It is a truly unique experience to see wild animals in their natural environment, especially when you can observe them up close either on land or from a zodiac. It is hard to describe the silence that settles when we try to be invisible so we don't disturb them. It might be a walrus bobbing gently in the water after feeding. Or a Svalbard reindeer grazing intensely on the last blades of grass for the year. Or a polar bear dozing among the rocks. The moment we spotted an animal, everyone fell silent. It was as if we wanted to blend into the surroundings so they could continue with whatever they were doing.
Can you tell us about a particularly special landing you made during the journey?
We landed at Isflakbukta in Sjuöarna, the group of islands that marks Svalbard’s northernmost outpost. It is one of the most remote places in all of Svalbard. We were lucky with the weather and the incredible light, and when we stepped ashore the landscape was barren and untouched. Several of the travellers said this was exactly how they imagined a landing on the moon. It felt wild and adventurous with beaches shaped by ice and wind, unlike anything I had ever seen before.
Do you have any other magical moments to share?
Every day and every place was special in its own way. One of the finest moments came towards the end of the trip when we only had a day or so left. The crew arranged a surprise barbecue, grilling outdoors on deck while music played in front of the incredible glacier Lilliehöökbreen, which cracked and rumbled in the background. We sat out on deck in the sunset and everyone had a smile on their face. Guests were dancing and singing and it became such a beautiful way to end the journey. You had to pinch yourself. It was pure joy from beginning to end.
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© Fredrik Aurell -
© Fredrik Aurell -
© Fredrik Aurell -
© Fredrik Aurell -
© Fredrik Aurell -
© Heidi Lähteenmäki Sander -
© Fredrik Aurell -
© Fredrik Aurell -
Please note. Depending on the lens used for photography or filming, an animal may appear closer than it actually is. We always follow current guidelines in the Arctic to ensure that we do not disturb the wildlife.