PolarQuest’s guides are blogging from the expedition on board Sea Endurance 14th-24th August in Svalbard
17th Aug, Day 4 on the expedition; Lågøya & Phippsøya
Already at 1 AM the day started with two magnificent blue whales feeding in a calm ocean. We watched a mother and calf for 2 ½ hours. A unique opportunity to watch the largest animal ever lived on planet Earth. Our morning outing was to a large Walrus haul-out site at Lågøya and the afternoon was allocated for exploration at Sjuøyane. Here we spotted our first Polar bear, younger male, resting on a snow patch above the beach. He nicely showed off by rolling on his back and showing all his paws!
Since 1999, we have taken travellers on once-in-a-lifetime trips to Svalbard. From May to September our three small expedition ships, carrying only 12 and 50 passengers, explore this magnificent Arctic archipelago. Unpredictability and flexibility are the main keywords when you travel with PolarQuest as the exact route depends on weather, ice conditions and wildlife encounters. Sometimes you might be woken up in the middle of the night if a polar bear has been spotted on the ice.
Learn more about M/S Quest
For more than 15 years, the small and comfortable 50-passenger ship, M/S Quest, has taken our travellers on unforgettable expedition cruises through the Arctic wilderness of Svalbard. This small and comfortable ship offers a truly unique experience; we can reach some of the most inaccessible areas, venture into small fjords and maximise the time to ensure that you get the most out of your trip.
On board the M/S Quest you will be accompanied by five knowledgeable guides. This allows us to divide the group during landings. Throughout the expedition, these polar experts will teach you more about Svalbard. There are also five Zodiacs (rubber boats) on board the ship.
The panorama lounge offers magnificent views of the surrounding landscape. Enjoy a coffee or explore the small library while taking in the magnificent nature! Here you also listen to interesting talks about Svalbard’s flora, fauna and history.
The bridge is open for visitors and the ship has spacious observation decks where you can enjoy the scenery, take photos or keep a lookout for wildlife. In Svalbard, there is always something to see, and it can be hard to tear oneself away from the deck to go to bed, especially when the sun is shining around the clock!
In the ship’s dining room, which accommodates all travellers, you will enjoy delicious meals between the excursions. A buffet is served for breakfast and lunch, while dinner is served at the table. Does food ever taste as good as after a day in the wilderness?
The M/S Quest offers 24 cabins, all with sea view and private shower/WC. The triple cabins on deck three have bunk beds, while all other cabins have twin or double beds. If you're looking for a more spacious cabin, we offer four Superior cabins and one Owner’s cabin. And if you're travelling on your own, you can choose to book a Single cabin or share a cabin.
Since 1999, we have taken travellers on once-in-a-lifetime trips to Svalbard. From May to September our three small expedition ships, carrying only 12 and 50 passengers, explore this magnificent Arctic archipelago. Unpredictability and flexibility are the main keywords when you travel with PolarQuest as the exact route depends on weather, ice conditions and wildlife encounters. Sometimes you might be woken up in the middle of the night if a polar bear has been spotted on the ice.
Blue fox and blue whales at sunset
A few days into the expedition we have reached the eastern part of Svalbard. On the way here we saw something I never dared to dream of - blue whales at sunset. To meet the largest animal that ever existed on earth is a special experience. Guests, guides and the crew of M/S Stockholm are all out on deck late this evening, or is it early in the morning?
The vegetation around the island of Nordaustlandet is sparse, which is not surprising given that 80 percent of the island is made of ice. We try to make a landing at this abandoned site, but each time the fog rolls in. We don't stand a chance. It's almost as if the island doesn't want us to set foot here. Also, the wind is starting to pick up so we need a sheltered spot.
We look at the map and spot Firkantsbukta, which has both an intriguing name and a good location. As we enter the narrow bay, we realise that it is home to thousands of birds. What a gem of a bay! Inside the bay there are also huge icebergs.
Maja, the mate, remains calm and we glide elegantly into the bay. We anchor not far from a sandy beach where a lot of driftwood and timber has been washed ashore. What begins as a walk turns into a climb over large boulders. With the weather on our side, we want to get to the top. We have to concentrate, as the stones get bigger and our feet have to be placed carefully. Our eyes are fixed on the ground, which leads to surprise when a fox suddenly emerges from the rocks right in front of us.
And not just any fox, but actually a blue fox, which is rarer than the white version here in Svalbard. Feeling lucky, we fill our SD cards with far too many pictures and watch him disappear into the horizon. This was just the beginning. It turned out that he would follow us. I wonder if he has encountered humans before? He arches his back, yawns, and does a formidable job of posing on the rock directly in front of us, with the glacier in the background. His dark fur, almost black, is a great contrast to the rocky terrain he and we are walking on.
The light on the horizon is now yellow and on board the M/S Stockholm they are already waiting for us. We are served a delicious meal and the conversation is at high speed. The day has just flown by!
Please note: We always follow strict wildlife guidelines to ensure that we do not cause any disturbance.
Since 1999, we have taken travellers on once-in-a-lifetime trips to Svalbard. From May to September our three small expedition ships, carrying only 12 and 50 passengers, explore this magnificent Arctic archipelago. Unpredictability and flexibility are the main keywords when you travel with PolarQuest as the exact route depends on weather, ice conditions and wildlife encounters. Sometimes you might be woken up in the middle of the night if a polar bear has been spotted on the ice.
Explore the Galapagos with Martin Berg
This year's trip to the Galapagos and Ecuador's highlands departs on 26 October. The expedition leader and guide is the dedicated nature enthusiast Martin Berg, who has visited this magical island group several times. Galapagos is truly a dream destination for all animal and nature lovers. Here Martin shares his expectations for the trip and lists some of the reasons that he believes make Galapagos a world-class destination.
"I am really looking forward to returning to the Galapagos Islands. It's always difficult to have expectations for the Galapagos because the ecosystems both on land and at sea vary so much from year to year depending on El Nino and La Nina, among others. But in general, I expect many close encounters with animals both below and above the water surface. I'm looking forward to snorkeling with fur seals, colorful fish and maybe the occasional hammerhead shark. On land, I hope to spot some bird species that I haven’t seen yet. The Galápagos rail is one such bird."
Eight reasons to visit the Galapagos according to Martin:
1. Unique wildlife
Galapagos is known for its exceptional wildlife. There are species found nowhere else in the world, from giant tortoises and marine iguanas to blue-footed boobies and Darwin's finches.
2. Evolutionary history
The islands were the place where Charles Darwin developed his theory of evolution by natural selection. Visiting the Galapagos offers the opportunity to see for yourself how different species have adapted differently on different islands.
The islands have a variety of impressive island landscapes, each with its own unique character. From volcanic black moonscapes, to white sandy beaches and lush cloud forest.
5. Conservation of nature
The Galapagos Islands are a World Heritage Site and an unique biosphere reserve. Visiting them gives you the opportunity to contribute to their conservation by supporting sustainable tourism.
For birdwatchers, the Galapagos is a dream destination. A variety of bird species can be found here, including albatrosses, petrels, frigate birds and finches.
In addition to the amazing wildlife, the local people of the Galapagos are hospitable and welcoming. Getting to know their culture and way of life can be an enriching experience.
The Galapagos Islands are located on the Equator, in the Pacific Ocean, nearly 600 miles off mainland Ecuador. Here we can play with sea lions, swim with penguins and photograph iguanas and giant tortoises. The animals are unafraid of humans and for anyone interested in wildlife, the Galapagos archipelago is a true oasis. Since 2003, we have taken adventurous travellers to this wildlife haven - now it's your turn!
Ny-Ålesund - history and future
On a visit to New Ålesund, you get a bit of everything that Svalbard is and has been. So, it was a natural first stop on our 10-day cruise around Svalbard on board M/S Quest.
A train that was used to transport coal from the mines down to the harbor was the first thing that met us on the walk through the village.
As early as 1610, the British whaler Jonas Poole found coal in Kungsfjorden. But it was not until 1911 that exploitation began on a small scale, for a few summer weeks each year. When the operation was taken over in 1916 by Peter Brandal, from Ålesund, mining increased and the village got its current name, Ny Ålesund.
During a period in the 1920s, it was from Ny Ålesund, the village closest to the North Pole, that several expeditions to the North Pole in various aircrafts began. Roald Amundsen attempted to fly to the North Pole in 1925 with two aircrafts, N24 and N25. But the two planes crash-landed on the ice and the expedition could have come to a tragic end. But after converting two planes into one and preparing a runway on the ice, they managed to fly back to New Ålesund.
But Amundsen did not give up. In 1926 he was back together with the Italian Nobile and the American Ellsworth for another attempt. Now with the help of an airship, Norway. On May 11, 1926 they took off from Ny Ålesund. On May 12 they passed the North Pole and on May 13 they landed happily in Teller, Alaska.
The mast that was used to anchor the airship Norge still stands a little outside the village. These stories and a lot of other interesting things can be learned during a visit to the Ny Ålesund Museum.
Across from the museum is the Kongsfjordsbutikken, where an ice cream after the museum visit was enjoyed, the clothing collection got some additions and postcards and stamps were purchased, so greetings from the world's northernmost community could be sent.
Today, Ny Ålesund is an international research village with over 20 different institutions from all over the world. The latest to join are India and China whose stations we passed on a walk through the village.
The Chinese station has two stone lions outside the door and according to hearsay they were shipped up in boxes labeled "Extremely Sensitive Research Equipment". The staff in Ny Ålesund naturally took it extremely carefully during the entire transport and at the same time wondered what it could be because it was incredibly heavy. They weren't too amused when it turned out to be "only" two stone lions.
Since 1999, we have taken travellers on once-in-a-lifetime trips to Svalbard. From May to September our three small expedition ships, carrying only 12 and 50 passengers, explore this magnificent Arctic archipelago. Unpredictability and flexibility are the main keywords when you travel with PolarQuest as the exact route depends on weather, ice conditions and wildlife encounters. Sometimes you might be woken up in the middle of the night if a polar bear has been spotted on the ice.
The sunset has returned to Svalbard
We set course for Faksevågen. It was not planned, but like so many times before, we have replaced plan A with plan B. That's how it works on expedition cruises, we have to be flexible. And tonight we have decided to follow the sun and the beautiful light..
It is the first warm evening light, almost a sunset, that I have seen in a long time. The midnight sun has been shining the whole summer now. And today it shines on the mountain in Faksevågen.
When we anchor and turn off the engine, there is complete silence. At least for a moment. Until there is a deep exhalation that makes me shiver a little. I have made eye contact with a walrus. He is curious and a little shy. When he sees my surprised face, he gets scared and dives down again. Walruses are incredibly agile in the water, in an almost acrobatic way.
He shows a clear interest in our boat, the M/S Stockholm, and decides to make another exploration attempt. This time, however, he is not alone. Now both walruses are looking at us.
The next morning I enjoy a good cup of coffee out on deck. The walruses are still there. What a nice meeting we have had with them. Slowly we now sail out of the fjord. Today, the sea is calm and we set course for one of the largest bird cliffs we have here on the eastern side of Svalbard, which is home to no less than 60,000 breeding pairs of Brünnich's guillemots.
After 15 August, you can drive closer to the mountain. Captain Magnus elegantly maneuvers the ship past the rocks. There is a chaos of birds flying around frantically. I hear the sound of a young bird and then I see it! He is sitting on the rock and both we and the fox are eagerly waiting for him to jump. But apparently not today.
Since 1999, we have taken travellers on once-in-a-lifetime trips to Svalbard. From May to September our three small expedition ships, carrying only 12 and 50 passengers, explore this magnificent Arctic archipelago. Unpredictability and flexibility are the main keywords when you travel with PolarQuest as the exact route depends on weather, ice conditions and wildlife encounters. Sometimes you might be woken up in the middle of the night if a polar bear has been spotted on the ice.
