Schnapps and Polar plunge at the Monacobreen glacier
It was a misty and rainy August morning, M/S Sjøveien sailed peacefully into the Liefdefjorden, surrounded by red mountains and snow-capped peaks. During breakfast the sky slowly but surely cleared up and was filled with sun shine and soft clouds, the water was still and the magnificent Monacobreen glacier became visible, it was sparkling in the light.
We set out in our Zodiacs and witnessed calving after calving, huge masses of ice crashing into the water. We saw the birds rushing to the site to pick up the zooplankton which was thrown in the sky from the giant splash. For some time we just relaxed in the sun and reminding ourselves where we were, at the top of the last landmass before the North Pole.
In the afternoon we visited the Texas Bar, a lonely trapper's cabin, in a small bay overlooking the fjord. We climbed along the mountains, as far as we could before it got too steep, and admired the magnificent view. We picked out a couple of schnapps and gave a toast for our expedition, while we listened to stories about the life the hunters had lived here, a hundred years ago. We were grateful for M/S Sjøveien, our ship waiting for us at the bay. We ended the day with a nervous and freezing polar plunge, followed by a well-deserved moment in the jacuzzi.
Since 1999, we have taken travellers on once-in-a-lifetime trips to Svalbard. From May to September our three small expedition ships, carrying only 12 and 50 passengers, explore this magnificent Arctic archipelago. Unpredictability and flexibility are the main keywords when you travel with PolarQuest as the exact route depends on weather, ice conditions and wildlife encounters. Sometimes you might be woken up in the middle of the night if a polar bear has been spotted on the ice.
PolarQuest's Carina on Expedition in the Sermilik Fjord
"A dreamy place that will stay in our hearts forever." This is how PolarQuest's Carina Svensson describes the magical Sermilik Fjord in eastern Greenland, where she recently participated in an expedition with a group of PolarQuest travellers and guides. In this blog post, she summarizes the first days of the trip.
Our journey began in style in Reykjavik, with a luxurious ride in a Mercedes minibus equipped with a panoramic roof that made us feel like we were gliding through the landscape. Filled with anticipation and in good company, we took off on time and were greeted by an incredibly beautiful approach to Kulusuk. From the small airport, we walked to our waiting Zodiac, and after a short ride, we boarded our ship, where we were greeted by our guides, Nilla and Henry. The chef had prepared a delicious three-course dinner and a glass of champagne. The day ended with a colourful sunset.
In the morning, we skillfully navigated around the southern side of Ammassalik Island and entered the magnificent Sermilik Fjord. In the afternoon, we made a landing in Johan Petersen Fjord, where we enjoyed a fantastic hike, with stranded icebergs scattered along the shoreline. When we returned on board, Captain Kim took us on a magical journey deep into Johan Petersen Fjord (known as Qeertartivatsaap Kangertiva in Greenlandic), where we anchored for the night. The sauna was ready, and both Captain Kim and Karolina took a refreshing dip in the mirror-like sea, while the sun slowly set over the horizon – a day to remember!
The day began with a spectacular view of the mighty glacier front, surrounded by icebergs of all sizes gently floating by. After breakfast, we set off on a challenging hike to the top of Immikkeertiajik, where we were rewarded with a panoramic view over the glacier. After lunch, we continued sailing further north into the majestic Sermilik Fjord and anchored for the night in the midst of a world of icebergs – a dreamy place that will forever remain in our hearts.
Day 4 – Saturday 24 August
In the morning, we paid a visit to an archaeological site on the western shores of Sermilik fjord. The disused village of Umiattuartivit offered a selection of three sod house remains, which gave us a wonderful insight into how the Inuit lived around a hundred years ago. After lunch, we made our way deeper into Sermilik, aiming for the mystical Helheim Glacier. There were cheers on board as we sailed into the mouth of Sermilik Fjord, with Helheim Glacier to our left, Fenris Glacier at the center, and Midgard Glacier to our right. At 66°15', we reached our farthest north, turned around, and continued our journey south with joy in our hearts. The day ended with the ship dropping anchor just around the corner from tomorrow’s destination, the small settlement of Tiniteqilaaq.
After breakfast, we paid a visit to Tiniteqilaq, where we landed and visited the settlement situated right above the ice-packed Sermilik fjord. The eerie silence on a Sunday added to the incredible view over the fjord and its icebergs. During lunch we passed through the narrow and scenic Ikaasatsiaq strait on our way to Kuummiit. The steep mountains with their majestic glaciers offered an incredible view during lunch. Finally, the time had come to see Kuummiut up close, a sight we had previously glimpsed from afar. Some of us had beautiful encounters with the locals and captured unforgettable moments on camera. We hiked up to a plateau for a magnificent view! After another delicious lunch, we sailed through the Ikassaq Passage and anchored for the night outside Ikatoq village. By popular demand, Nilla shared photos and stories from her time in East Greenland. We slept soundly until Henry knocked on our doors to view the magical Northern Lights.
Today, we set out to explore the former American base, Bluie East Two, at the historic site of Ikateq. It was fascinating to learn that there were once over 200,000 barrels there. Now, it resembles something out of a Mad Max series. Sailing through Ammassalik Fjord, we kept our eyes peeled for whales and were rewarded with sightings of both humpback and minke whales. We anchored for the night in King Oscar's Harbor just outside Tasiilaq, where Allan and Exy, who had impressed us with their culinary skills throughout the journey, surprised us with a BBQ in the sunshine – a delight for everyone!
Experience Greenland’s untamed wilderness with the elegant 12-passenger ship M/S Balto, designed to explore the most remote fjord systems, visit isolated Inuit settlements and take you to secret anchorages. Greenland’s spectacular coastline offers some of the most remarkable nature experiences. The Arctic landscape is dominated by ice-filled fjords, majestic peaks and vast tundra.
10 Facts About the Orca
The orca is one of the most iconic and impressive marine mammals in the world. Known for its intelligent and social nature, this creature is characterised by its distinctive black and white colouring and possesses several fascinating features. In this blog post, we have listed 10 facts about the orca that you might not know.
Orcas are highly social animals that live in pods – complex and well-organized groups. These groups can consist of up to 40 individuals.
3. Educating each other
Orcas educate each other, passing down knowledge and behaviors necessary for survival in the ocean from generation to generation. They have a very stable social structure, and an individual often remains in the same pod for their entire life.
4. Different dialects
Each orca family has its own unique dialect, allowing them to distinguish themselves from others and communicate effectively during hunting and social interactions.
Orcas are known for their high intelligence and problem-solving abilities, which they utilize when hunting in groups. In fact, they have the second-largest brain of all marine animals when comparing brain mass to body size.
6. Long lifespan
The average lifespan of female orcas is around 50 years, but there are examples of them reaching up to 90 years of age. Males live up to 40 years.
7. Reproduction
A female orca becomes sexually mature between 8-10 years of age, but she does not have her first calf until she is around 14 years old. Males reach sexual maturity later, sometimes not until they are 16 years old. An adult female can have a calf every three years, but the average is one calf every eight years.
Orcas use echolocation to locate and identify objects around them in the water by emitting sound waves that bounce back. This helps them navigate and hunt in dark or murky waters.
9. Apex predators
Orcas are apex predators, meaning they are at the top of the food chain and have no natural enemies.
10. Cosmopolitan animals
Orcas are found in all the world's oceans, from the Arctic and Antarctic waters to tropical seas. Approximately 1,500 orcas are found off the coast of Norway, but the total number in the world's oceans is unknown.
Join us on an exciting journey on board the small expedition ship M/S Stockholm. We will explore the deep fjords of northern Norway outside Alta, where groups of humpback whales and orcas typically gather in search of the large herring shoals. At the same time, we hope to experience the majestic Northern Lights.
Travelling through the stunning Norwegian coastal landscape on a small expedition cruise ship is simply hard to beat. Lofoten islands welcome with picturesque fishing villages, squeezed between soaring mountains and quiet fjords. In wintertime Tromsø offers magnificent sceneries over dramatic landscapes and great chances to spot both orcas and humpback whales. If we’re lucky we will also see the magical Northern Lights dancing in the sky. Join us on an unforgettable cruise!
Hiking in Historical Kinnvika
A landing took place at a site on the northern side of Murchinsonfjorden: Kinnvika. Kinnvika is a scientific station that was built by Sweden and Finland during the International Geophysical Year of 1957/1958. The buildings are still in good condition. From this location, observations were made in various fields of geophysics, including meteorology, aurora borealis, and geomagnetism. Although the scientific program was successfully completed, the station fell into disuse after that year.
The buildings were also used again by scientists during the International Polar Year of 2007/2008. The research focused on the glaciology of the local ice caps, Vestfonna and Austfonna, as well as local environmental pollution, the effects of climate change on the local ecosystem, and other topics.
For each activity, guests can choose which walk or activity they want to join. The duration or distance of the walk often remains a mystery until it's over, as the group will need to adjust to the pace of the slowest member. This is why there are typically 3 to 4 walking options available on land. The 'long walk,' also known as the 'attack group,' focuses more on the hike itself than on photography. The 'medium hike' group may visit the same places as the long walk but takes more time, allowing for more photography along the way. Lastly, the 'short hike,' often called the 'poetry group,' takes a slower pace, spending time at a hut, exploring plants, or strolling along the beach, with the terrain being relatively easy to walk.
With the group that chose the long walk, we set off across the well-formed elevated beaches and along ridges filled with Svalbard's oldest fossils, including Stromatolites. We continued to the top of Kinnberget, which stands at 128 meters high, offering a stunning view over Murchinsonfjorden and Oddneset. We took our time to rest and soak in the beautiful scenery.
On the way back, we made a small loop and took the time to stop and explore the buildings of Kinnvika. In addition to large barracks with multiple sleeping quarters, we found an observatory for northern lights research and a full workshop with a garage. There was even a sauna (unfortunately closed for viewing)—after all, they are Swedes and Finns! We also came across an old amphibious vehicle, which caught the interest of several men in the group.
Overall, we spent about 3 hours on land, enjoying both the walk and the rich history. It's great to know that this landing site will remain open in the future, allowing more people to experience this unique and historic location.al place
Since 1999, we have taken travellers on once-in-a-lifetime trips to Svalbard. From May to September our three small expedition ships, carrying only 12 and 50 passengers, explore this magnificent Arctic archipelago. Unpredictability and flexibility are the main keywords when you travel with PolarQuest as the exact route depends on weather, ice conditions and wildlife encounters. Sometimes you might be woken up in the middle of the night if a polar bear has been spotted on the ice.
An abundance of life
We sailed through the Seven Islands towards Isflakbukta on Phippsøya, the ocean was glossy calm and there were light winds. We were met by several groups of walrus in the water as we made our way further north.
We had lunch while at anchor and started getting ready for the afternoon excursion. We got into the suits and off we went towards Skrikholmane where there were at least 50 odd walrus hauled out on the low lying islets.
After cruising in the slow swell we arrived at the islands. The animals were of every size and age, seemingly a female group. There were young of varying ages without any tusks. The light was beautiful and made the walrus glow in the sunlight. The mothers were lying at the water ’ s edge with their young and as elegant as only a walrus can be they went in and out of the water.
Please note: Depending on the lens used for a photo or video shot an animal may appear to be closer than it is. We always follow strict wildlife guidelines to ensure that we do not cause any disturbance.
Since 1999, we have taken travellers on once-in-a-lifetime trips to Svalbard. From May to September our three small expedition ships, carrying only 12 and 50 passengers, explore this magnificent Arctic archipelago. Unpredictability and flexibility are the main keywords when you travel with PolarQuest as the exact route depends on weather, ice conditions and wildlife encounters. Sometimes you might be woken up in the middle of the night if a polar bear has been spotted on the ice.
The Green Land of Greenland
As I walk on a path beside a dusty road, the colours of the landscape are astonishing. Greenland. Green it is. Spread out in front of me are purple carpets of wild mountain thyme, sapphire blossoms of calendula. This is a place of colour, unexpected floral scents.
My view to the west was once occupied by Eric the red. A Viking of note. As history has recorded, the first to settle here, and to name this green land.
Of those who travelled with him, not many men and women survived the journey. A few of their animals did. Animals to provide food – meat and milk. Wool for clothing. The origins of a herd that would last four centuries until their masters returned to the land from which they came.
A small ship brought me here – along with a dozen or so friendly souls. A ship not much larger than which Eric sailed in. Our ship, however, has the benefit of a modern engine, a steel hull that can withstand ice and a crew to care for us.
Our morning smells of garlic and steamed rice. Philippine scents. We fish, catch cod for lunch and pass by rich farmland full of sheep and dairy where, in the north, we saw only tundra and fireweed. Evidence of reindeer and musk ox. Little more. Of the people that were here before the Norsemen came, more later. To be brief about the first settlers would be disrespectful. Their lives demand libraries, not blogs. And yet, I will write of them in time. Their world – centuries of adapting to a world where ice is the norm.
Their ocean gives evidence of life in abundance. Fins in their hundreds. Blowing in the soft late evening light as gulls and skua abound. Their world, changing more rapidly than we can imagine, only serves to alarm us to our presence and our effects.
We are witness to this change, and as such, we are fortunate indeed to be in this place – a place to which we will return and to which we will bring others to tell the story of this green land.
Experience Greenland’s untamed wilderness with the elegant 12-passenger ship M/S Balto, designed to explore the most remote fjord systems, visit isolated Inuit settlements and take you to secret anchorages. Greenland’s spectacular coastline offers some of the most remarkable nature experiences. The Arctic landscape is dominated by ice-filled fjords, majestic peaks and vast tundra.
