In August 2024, Anders Sehrman and his girlfriend had the opportunity to experience Svalbard’s magnificent landscapes and unique wildlife when they joined us on an expedition aboard M/S Quest. Also joining the voyage as a special lecturer was Håkan Jorikson, Director of Grenna Museum, as the goal was to reach the legendary Kvitøya.
I had always wanted to visit this place, and those moments there moved me deeply. To witness this historic site, to feel the presence of history, and to sense the closeness of the expedition’s fate was truly special.
Already during the flight into Longyearbyen, we got a hint of just how beautiful Svalbard is. The weather was magnificent, with clear blue skies and sunshine. We approached from the southeast, which meant we flew over a large part of Spitsbergen, the largest island in the Svalbard archipelago. The captain of the SAS flight seemed determined to give us an extra glimpse of Svalbard’s stunning scenery. The aircraft tilted alternately from left to right so that we could get a better view. It became a rather extraordinary experience even before we had arrived.
In addition to sailing around the archipelago and experiencing its nature and wildlife, this voyage had a special purpose: to follow in the footsteps of S.A. Andrée and the Andrée Expedition in Svalbard. Håkan Jorikson, Director of Grenna Museum, was specially invited as a lecturer on the journey. His insights and stories were greatly appreciated and added an extra depth to these parts of the expedition. Thank you, Håkan!
Before arriving at Virgohamna on Danskøya, the voyage’s first landing site and also our first Andrée-related experience, we made a detour into Smeerenburgfjorden. Its grandeur is overwhelming, with so many glaciers flowing into this fjord. The traces of glacier calving were also clearly visible in the green shimmering waters filled with ice. There is a remarkable silence in these fjords, broken only now and then by the thunder of calving glaciers and the sounds of the abundant birdlife.
Birdlife was constantly present throughout the journey and left a strong impression on all of us. We all tried to capture the perfect photograph of that particular bird, especially the many bird enthusiasts on board, whose long lenses almost seemed to reach all the way there. During the voyage, we were also fortunate enough to spot the ivory gull, so characteristic of Svalbard, on several occasions!
To stand on the very spot where the balloon hangar once stood was truly remarkable.
For many years, I had personally dreamed of seeing Virgohamna, the departure site of the Andrée Expedition’s balloon flight. And then we finally came ashore by Quest’s Zodiacs. The expectations were fulfilled. To stand on the very spot where the balloon hangar once stood was truly remarkable. Numerous traces remain from the expedition, as well as from other expeditions that have been here over the years. The sheltered location of the bay was surely an ideal place for the preparations under the harsh conditions of nature.
We then crossed the sound by Zodiac to Amsterdamøya, where the remains of Smeerenburg can still be found. We viewed the remains of the old blubber ovens from a short distance, as a group of walruses was resting between us and the site. The walruses basked in the sun and seemed more than happy to pose for us. We were able to get quite close to them, both on land and by Zodiac. What an experience! Later that same evening, in Fuglefjorden, we spotted the voyage’s first polar bear!
The following day, we arrived at the Monaco Glacier in Liefdefjorden. The weather was absolutely fantastic. The sun was shining from a clear blue sky as we approached. The weather changes quickly here, so you have to be prepared for everything – sunshine, snow, rain, calm conditions, strong winds, and mist – all within short periods of time. But on this particular day, the sun and blue skies had chosen to stay with us.
We cruised around in the Zodiacs for several hours. The Monaco Glacier calves frequently, and we were able to both see and hear this happening many times. At one point, there was also a particularly large calving event. It is truly awe inspiring to witness and hear! The waves created by the calvings were clearly noticeable. Powerful forces are at work here. Many birds were flying around the area, as they find food near the glaciers after calving events. It was here that I captured a photograph of an ivory gull.
Our next stop and landing was at Texas Bar, quite a charming place. By Svalbard standards, the name feels rather fitting. If you drink something here, you are expected to leave something behind as well. We enjoyed a wonderful hike in the area, with several different routes to choose from depending on difficulty level. We chose the medium option and got to see both Arctic plants up close and some birdlife as well. One particular bird took a liking to one of the guides and kept approaching him. Since he is especially interested in birds, it had chosen the right person!
A glacier hike was added to the updated programme for those who wished to join, and of course we did!
The forces of the weather made it necessary to seek shelter in Hinlopen the following day. Our guides decided to include a visit to Lomfjorden in the itinerary. Morning mist and faint sunshine greeted us as we sailed into the fjord, and it was incredibly beautiful. Before long, however, the sun completely took over. Deep inside the fjord we were fully sheltered, and the water was perfectly calm, without a single ripple on the surface.
A glacier hike was added to the updated programme for those who wished to join, and of course we did! It turned out to be a very good idea to use the trekking poles available to borrow. We walked upward across the glacier and gradually gained a magnificent view over the fjord. Quest appeared only as a tiny speck far in the distance. It was fascinating how the exceptionally clear air made it difficult to judge distances.
On our way back to Quest, we spotted the polar bear we had previously glimpsed. We remained still and quiet in the Zodiacs, at a respectful distance. After a while, the bear stood up, looked around, sniffed the air a little, and began walking down toward the shoreline. Time seemed to disappear once again. What an experience!
Back on board Quest, we saw that the bear had started swimming across the fjord. Eventually, the bear reached the shore and continued walking along the coastline. It sniffed at various things, stopped to relieve itself, and then continued its journey. Those with binoculars certainly got good use out of them. Then we sailed on. What a day!
The walruses surprised all of us during the voyage. On land they appear large and clumsy, and indeed they are, but in the water they are remarkably agile and fast.
The following day, we anchored at Nelsonøya, a small island in the western part of the Seven Islands. Before this day, at least for me, this little island had been completely unknown. A towering bird cliff dominates the landscape, and the plan had been to make a landing there, but it turned out that a polar bear had arrived before us. It was lying higher up on the island, looking down at us.
There was also a walrus colony nearby, and the animals swam around curiously observing us. The walruses surprised all of us during the voyage. On land they appear large and clumsy, and indeed they are, but in the water they are remarkably agile and fast. They are curious creatures and approach gradually as a group. They swim closer, lift their heads above the surface, circle around for a while, and then suddenly disappear. A little later they return, coming even closer than before, and this pattern repeated itself several times. They are wonderful animals.
After some time, we noticed on one side of the island that a female walrus was resting on a rocky ledge together with her calf. Their colouring blended surprisingly well with the rocks around them. They remained there for quite a while before eventually and slowly sliding into the water, perhaps it was time for a little swimming lesson for the young one. It was an especially beautiful experience to witness.
The weather gods were on our side, and we enjoyed favourable conditions as we continued eastward along Nordaustlandet toward our next destinations, Storøya and later Kvitøya. The guides had prepared us by explaining that Storøya is notoriously difficult to land on, not because of the landing itself, but because polar bears are usually present there. There is not a great deal to see on the island, but the challenge of actually getting ashore makes it alluring in itself.
As it turned out, there were no polar bears present when we arrived, so we were able to go ashore and take a short walk along the beach. There we came across the skeleton of a walrus. It was not a pleasant sight. Most likely, it had once been a polar bear’s meal. We later returned on board and remained anchored there during the first hours of the night. Then the crossing toward Kvitøya began, one of the true highlights and main objectives of the expedition.
Eventually, the guides found a spot where, to everyone’s great joy, we were able to make a very brief landing and finally achieve the goal of setting foot on Kvitøya.
We arrived at Kvitøya early in the morning, and what a sight it was. The mighty ice cap, almost oval in shape, shimmered brightly and completely dominated the landscape. On the western side, at Andréeneset, there is however a stretch of ice free land, and it was there that the Andrée Expedition came to its tragic end.
Our hopes for the long awaited landing were quickly dashed when several polar bears appeared – four in total – and we realised that we might have to settle for being only a few dozen metres from the shore. The island is so heavily exposed to the sea and the winds that even reaching it is an achievement in itself. The sea was rough and the Zodiacs had to struggle at times, but we managed to follow the shoreline toward the site of the monument and the place where the expedition finally came to rest.
We reached the site, and despite the waves it was still possible to photograph the monument and the area, even if we remained several dozen metres offshore. I had always wanted to visit this place, and those moments there moved me deeply. To witness this historic site, to feel the presence of history, and to sense the closeness of the expedition’s fate was truly special.
The specially authorised Swedish Norwegian research expedition, which had planned to carry out a structured archaeological excavation at the site later that August, had not managed to land during the two weeks their vessel had been stationed there. As far as I know, they never succeeded during their third week either, and perhaps the attempt will be repeated next summer.
We then travelled a little farther north with the Zodiacs, away from the polar bears. Eventually, the guides found a spot where, to everyone’s great joy, we were able to make a very brief landing and finally achieve the goal of setting foot on Kvitøya – something only a small number of people have ever done. We stayed close to the Zodiacs, took photographs as proof of the achievement, and smiled broadly. Yes!
The journey then continued back toward the southern parts of Hinlopen. The small island of Langeøya was our destination, and we anchored there. Among other things, the island is home to a walrus colony that often gathers on a beautiful beach.
During the landing, we were able to spot an Arctic fox at fairly close range. After observing us for a moment – thankfully just long enough for us to take a few photographs – it suddenly ran off. We then went on a hike across the island and once again became acquainted with Svalbard’s unique vegetation.
When we returned to the beach, the walruses had shifted their position slightly, and a few of them were swimming nearby. They were clearly curious about us. Their behaviour repeated itself over and over: they approached as a group, lifted their heads to look at us, and then swam away together. The next time they came a little closer, and closer still the time after that.
In the end, we all sat down quietly on the beach, completely still and silent. The walruses came nearer and nearer and truly seemed to put on a show for us. What wonderful animals they are.
As you approach the glacier, you truly realise just how immense it is. It forms a wall of ice, and with the naked eye you can neither see its beginning nor its end.
The enormous and impressive Bråsvellbreen was our next destination, and when we arrived it was shrouded in mist. We sailed along the glacier toward a well known area where meltwater cascades down into the sea. As you approach the glacier, you truly realise just how immense it is. It forms a wall of ice, and with the naked eye you can neither see its beginning nor its end.
Quest brought us close to the rushing meltwater, and both the force and the sound were striking. Despite the mist, we captured some truly beautiful photographs here. We also learned that the shifting colours of the ice actually stand out more clearly without direct sunlight.
During the night, we sailed around Sørkappland, the southernmost tip of Svalbard, where the winds were quite strong. By morning, we had reached Hornsund. As we entered the fjord, we passed the Polish research station, which appeared surprisingly large. A little farther in, we made a landing at Gnålodden, a steep and towering bird cliff. There were birds everywhere, both visible and audible in astonishing numbers.
The armed guides positioned themselves around the headland, allowing us to walk freely along the beach and partway up the steep cliff. On the beach there was also an old trapping hut that we were able to enter, giving us a fascinating insight into how trappers once lived in these remote surroundings.
We later sailed around the “corner” and entered Burgerbukta. It was here in the fjord that the famous polar plunge took place. Many people felt called to take a dip in the freezing 0 degree water. I must admit that I chose not to participate. Those who did looked both frozen and happy afterward.
Later that evening, it was time for a barbecue on deck, and what a wonderful atmosphere it was. Surrounded by the magnificent backdrop of the fjord and glaciers, we sat warmly dressed while enjoying dinner. Then, quite spontaneously, the crew started dancing on deck to well known music, and I believe every passenger and guide joined in. It was such great fun and the mood was absolutely fantastic!
Now the voyage was approaching its end, and for the final day the guides had planned two landings. We sailed north toward Isfjorden, and although the sea was somewhat rough, it still felt fairly comfortable onboard.
In the morning, we arrived at Alkehornet near the entrance to Isfjorden. The area is known for its large population of Svalbard reindeer, and this proved to be very true. We went on a fairly long hike and had plenty of opportunities to observe them at close range.
It was during his first visit to Svalbard that S.A. Andrée spent a year living in Svenskehuset, where the ideas for future polar expeditions were likely first born.
Then it was time for the final landing, a rather demanding one. On the northern side of Isfjorden, in the area known as Dickson Land at Cape Thordsen, stands a building called Svenskehuset, which has been used and inhabited by several Swedish expeditions over the years. Among them was the Swedish Physical and Meteorological Expedition to Spitsbergen from July 1882 to September 1883.
The site is especially interesting because it was during his first visit to Svalbard that S.A. Andrée spent a year living in Svenskehuset, where the ideas for future polar expeditions were likely first born.
The landing itself is quite difficult because of the swell in the fjord, but thanks to the skill of the guides, we managed to get ashore safely. What followed was a very steep climb up to the flat plateau and then a walk of just under a kilometre across marshy ground to reach the house. But the effort was absolutely worthwhile, once again allowing us to feel the presence of history.
Sadly, there is also a graveyard near the house where several trappers are buried. Later investigations revealed that they lost their lives due to lead poisoning. The descent back down to the shoreline after the hike was quite steep and challenging. There were probably a few people who regretted it in that very moment, though I am sure that afterwards they felt the entire experience had been worth it.
Spåren efter Andrée-expeditionen lämnade oss djupt imponerade och berörda av de ansträngningar som de tre deltagarna tvingades till
We saw 14 polar bears, an impressive number of walruses, many Svalbard reindeer, an Arctic fox, three minke whales, and countless birds during the voyage. So many memories of the wildlife. It is difficult to describe — it simply has to be experienced. Here, we are on nature’s and the wildlife’s terms, even if we as tourists in some ways intrude upon their territory. It is important to do so in the right way, with the utmost respect and care.
Then the journey came to an end, and only the trip home remained. The impressions and experiences were so many that it has taken time to process them all. The countless photographs we took have already brought us back to those days again and again. The memories stay with you, and even now one still feels deeply moved by what we witnessed. The grandeur of nature, the richness yet fragility of the wildlife — all of this became so tangible during the voyage.
The traces of the Andrée Expedition left both me and all of us deeply impressed and affected, indeed moved, by the efforts and hardships endured by the three expedition members.
Finally, it must be said that our guides — expedition leader Elke, as well as the other guides Johnny, Debbie, Olivier, and Patrik — truly did a fantastic job. They were dedicated, knowledgeable, and did everything they could to maximise both the voyage and the experiences. Full credit to them!
The crew aboard M/S Quest also deserves special mention. It was so clear that they genuinely enjoyed their work and wanted the voyage to be a success. The food on board was absolutely first class, and it was impressive to see what the kitchen produced from morning until evening. Full credit for that as well!
Text and photos: Anders Sehrman
Please note: Depending on the lens used for a photo or video shot an animal may appear to be closer than it is. We always follow strict wildlife guidelines to ensure that we do not cause any disturbance.