Welcome to PolarQuest, Henry! Please tell us a little bit about yourself.

– I’m travelling on a German passport, as I was born and raised in Berlin, Germany. However, I’d rather define myself as a European or world citizen. I never truly understood the purpose of political borders, fences, or passports. I didn’t choose to be born in Germany; I suppose I was just lucky. But the era I was born into enabled me to travel and live abroad. I’ve lived in the Netherlands, the UK, Norway, and, for quite some time, in Iceland, which deep down I still consider the place where I belong. During all that time, I adopted traits and features from all those places, making it hard to be called "a German," as I am possibly the least “German” German you might know.

Currently, I live with my family in the heart of Transylvania, right at the junction of three geographical regions: the Transylvanian Plain, the Mureș Valley, and the Niraj Valley. Our village, in the rural countryside of the Niraj Valley, is part of a commune of roughly 2,000 people and is only 30 minutes from the nearest town, Târgu Mureș. I am often asked why I live here, and the simple answer is that my wife is from here. I met her in Iceland, and at the beginning of the pandemic, we decided to move back, which was the best decision we could have made. Our son, Leo, was born here last year, and I couldn’t be happier that he’s being raised close to his grandparents and dozens of relatives.

Started in advertising
Professionally, I started in advertising. During my A-levels, I founded a web design agency with a friend that still exists today. After school, I completed my professional education in advertising and moved to Munich, where I joined a small agency working primarily for Siemens and Telefónica O2. I eventually left the industry, wanting to become an A&R manager in the music industry. I loved music but had no talent for playing an instrument. No record label, however, thought I was a good fit, so I ended up at a film production company that primarily produced music videos and concert recordings. After travelling to nearly every major music festival across Europe, I left the company to start my own, which lasted nearly ten years. During that time, I produced numerous music videos for both emerging and established artists, TV documentaries for the German and British markets, and commercials for well-known brands. We primarily produced in Iceland, giving me the perfect reason to move to this beautiful place.

From hiking guide to cruise ships
At one point, I was asked if I wanted to lead a group of hikers on a 14-day trek through the Westfjords, which I did. I enjoyed the trip a lot and was baffled that one could make a living from that, so I slowly started working as guide – first for German companies operating tours in Iceland, then for Icelandic companies. I started as a hiking guide in the Highlands, on volcanoes and glaciers, and later as a guide on tours around the Ring Road or through the Highlands. From there, it was a small step onto a cruise ship for a circumnavigation of Iceland. I immediately fell in love with life on board and the lifestyle. When I left the Ocean Diamond at the end of the season that year, I moved on to smaller ships in Northern Norway. Twelve-passenger vessels became my home for a long time, and I deeply enjoyed the relationships built with guests. But this lifestyle takes a toll if you continuously work back-to-back trips year after year. So, I transitioned to larger vessels – first a tall ship, then a 100-passenger vessel, and eventually 200-passenger ships in both the Arctic and Antarctica. The passion I developed for geology and ice in Iceland stayed with me, and I soon became a well-regarded lecturer, particularly in glaciology and volcanology in both polar regions. Later, I was also hired as a historian, as polar exploration history is a topic of great interest for me. In general, I am much like a sponge; I soak up everything related to the polar regions and their connection to the world’s biosphere. This ultimately led me to join the Curiously Polar podcast, which I now co-host with the two founders, Chris Marquardt (a well-known photographer) and Mario Acquarone (Deputy Director of the Arctic Marine Assessment Programme, AMAP, and an Expedition Leader himself).

Served as Field Operations Manager
During the pandemic, when our work literally ceased to exist, I was fortunate enough to be offered the opportunity to set up expedition operations for a new company, and I am proud to have put a new-build vessel into service in Antarctica only ten months after starting from scratch. Following that, I helped Ponant reposition their product around the icebreaker Le Commandant Charcot, which I was also fortunate enough to help put into commercial service in the Arctic. Later, I served as Field Operations Manager for Quark Expeditions, focusing strongly on Health & Safety, including incident reviews, SOP development, and field staff training and development.

Returned to a small ship company
Now, I am happy to have returned to the smaller ship size that started it all for me. The particular challenges we face with a changing Arctic make our operations increasingly complex, and I am glad to join the team around Marie, Johanna, Mia, and Henrik to not only ensure safe operations for our Greenland and Antarctica products but also to set a successful course for PolarQuest for the future.

What is it about polar destinations that fascinates you?

– The remoteness is certainly a big factor in my fascination, but also the vulnerability of the ecosystems, and the way they serve as the "canary in the coal mine", if you will – an indicator of extreme change in the time of the climate crisis. The polar regions work very well as a living classroom; there are very few places where you can better visualize the changes we anticipate for the world, as well as the impact of our way of life, than in the polar regions. And while Antarctica boasts incredible wildlife and massive ice, the Arctic presents indigenous cultures with over 4,000 years of history and tradition. There are no better places to see how everything in our world is interconnected, and sharing my passion for these regions, using them as a backdrop to explain what I need, makes me feel humble about my own role in this world.

Do you have any areas of expertise?

– I’m basically a jack-of-all-trades-master-of-none, but I’m a total nerd when it comes to all kinds of ice (including ice cream) and volcanoes. Bathymetry and oceanography are other topics that really excite me, as well as the history of polar exploration. Geopolitics is also fascinating, especially when it comes to the specifics of the polar regions. Literally everything polar. 

My true expertise (and after many, many years, I still consider myself a novice here) lies in Japanese green tea. I’m a true believer that there’s no better green tea out there than Japanese, and that brewing a pot of green tea is more of a ceremony than a task. Drinking this wonderful elixir brings me joy and much-needed caffeine, and I’m always happy to share rare, high-quality teas with anyone interested. It’s almost impossible to find really good green tea in regular tea shops, let alone restaurants. So, if I can help, I’m happy to!

What do you think you can mainly contribute to the team?

– Being the least “German” German, everyone expects me to be the most organized person in the building. And to be fair, compared to most others, maybe I am. So yes, I hope to bring a bit of that to the table. I have been around the industry quite a bit, and I hope to contribute with my experience from all the different ways operators organize their businesses and operations, helping to put things into perspective. And while I’m an introvert who truly hates networking events, I feel I am fairly well-connected in the industry, which helps solve a lot of the complex issues we are currently facing across the Arctic. Training and Development is a personal passion for me, and I hope to contribute to that for PolarQuest in the future as well. My dry sense of humor, irony, and sarcasm are surely already much appreciated by my colleagues in the office, and they’re probably quite happy to only have me around in person once a month.

If you have anything else you would like to add, feel free!

– I’m a firm believer in the degrowth movement as well as in lifelong learning. Further, I am deeply invested in American Football and work with a local team in Romania’s American Football league. Using the sport to shape boys into men, teaching them lessons that go far beyond the sport, and breaking the toxic masculinity still present in vast areas of the country is one of my more ambitious side hustles, that’s for sure. But seeing the Mureș Monsters grow is one of the most fulfilling things I’ve been part of.

The true gift in life, however, is quality time with my family. Being able to spend time with my son – bringing him to daycare every morning, picking him up for lunch, playing with him in the afternoon, or simply exploring the forests around our village – these are the most precious moments in life. And that puts everything in perspective again. Working in an environment where family is valued and not considered a burden is just as precious, making me even more appreciative of being part of the PolarQuest family.

Was this your first visit to Svalbard?

– Yes, this was my first trip to Svalbard. I have been to Lofoten and northern Norway before, so I have experienced the nature to some extent before. But this type of trip, with a ship and landings in the wilderness, was completely new to me.

How did you come up with the idea to go to the Arctic?

– I have wanted to make this trip for a long time. I am fascinated by animals and nature, and the feeling of getting so close to everything was absolutely magical.

How did you prepare for the trip?

– I prepared by participating in and listening to a Zoom meeting with pre deaparture information from PolarQuest. I also did some reading on packing and equipment.

What were your expectations for Svalbard as a destination? Was it as you imagined?

– I didn't really know what to expect, other than that I would experience something I had never experienced before. The trip was fantastic, better than I could have hoped for. The nature and views we saw were absolutely magical. We had brilliant weather, and we also got to see many different animals and had other unforgettable experiences. It's hard to describe in words for those who weren't there.

You travelled as a solo traveller. How was that experience?

– Yes, it was the first time I travelled completely alone without meeting any companions on site, so naturally, I was a bit nervous beforehand. However, I thought that this type of trip attracts people who, like me, are interested in animals and nature, so I believed I would surely meet someone to connect with. And I did – I met several fellow travellers I could 'hang out with'. I wasn't the only one travelling solo, which felt reassuring. I found it worked very well. The staff on board and the guides were very kind and helpful. When you travel alone, you also have a responsibility to be a little extra open and social.

How did you experience life on board M/S Quest?

– The moments on the boat were relaxing and pleasant. You could spend your free time on board exactly as you wished. If you wanted to sit and watch the surroundings, the lounge was a very comfortable place to be. The only thing you needed to think about was adhering to the set times for excursions, meals, and similar activities.

What was the best part of the trip?

– The best part of the trip was definitely all the impressions I took home with me. All the different shades of blue – the sky, the sea, and ice in various forms.

Do you have any particularly memorable moments that you would like to share?

– I have several memorable moments. One was when we went out early in the morning to the bird cliff. The sea was 'boiling' with birds scouting for a spot on the rock wall, and as we got closer, we saw how how even the rock was ‘moving’ with all the birds that had already secured a place on the ledge. It was truly magical. Another strong memory is when we cruised with the Zodiac and saw a young female polar bear running along the water's edge. She stopped and began to play while we watched her from a distance. It was a special moment.

Another memory is when we went ashore on Moffen in the middle of the night and saw a group of walruses lounging around. Before that, another group of walruses had scoped us out from the water, absolutely incredible! Besides all the fantastic animal encounters, it was an incredible feeling when the boat cruised between small ice floes that floated freely on the water. The sea looked like a puzzle, and reaching the ice wall was an exciting ending.

Many who visit Svalbard are struck by the so-called 'polar bug,' a longing to return. How was it for you?

- Everything amazing I experienced during this trip has been overwhelming. That's why I'm not sure if I would go again, for fear that it wouldn't feel as special next time.

Please note: Depending on the lens used for a photo or video shot an animal may appear to be closer than it is. We always follow strict wildlife guidelines to ensure that we do not cause any disturbance.

Approaching Solar Maximum

We are approaching solar maximum, a period when the Sun’s activity reaches its peak. This phase, which occurs every eleven years, is characterized by an increase in the number of sunspots, solar flares, and other solar activities. During solar maximum, the Sun’s magnetic field also reverses, amplifying the processes that produce spectacular auroras. Therefore, we can expect more frequent and impressive Northern Lights displays during 2024 and 2025.

How do the colours in the sky form?

The Northern Lights' colourful display in the sky is created when electrically charged particles from the Sun, moving at high speed, interact with Earth's magnetic field. These particles are directed towards the poles, where they accelerate and collide with oxygen and nitrogen atoms. These collisions create flashes of light in various colours, which we experience as the aurora. Oxygen atoms primarily emit green light, and occasionally red, while nitrogen produces shades of violet, purple, and blue.

Alta – The Northern Lights City

Few places on Earth are as well-suited for witnessing the vibrant display of the Northern Lights as Northern Norway. From our base in Alta, located directly beneath the auroral oval and with minimal light pollution, we offer whales and Northern Lights expeditions to some of the world's premier spots for viewing this phenomenon. On board our small expedition ship M/S Stockholm, we are far from the lights of civilisation, where no distracting light sources obstruct the view. This further increases the chances of having magical Northern Lights experiences.

Did you know that the world's first permanent Northern Lights observatory was built just outside of Alta at the end of the 19th century?

Want the chance to experience the Northern Lights this year?

Join us on an exciting journey in true expedition style on board the small 12-passenger ship M/S Stockholm, a vessel rich in history and character. We’ll explore the deep fjords of Northern Norway outside Alta, taking in enchanting views. As darkness falls, we’ll keep our eyes on the sky, hoping it fills with brushstrokes of majestic Northern Lights. We also hope for unforgettable encounters with orcas and humpback whales, which in recent years have gathered in the area in search of herring.

We only have a few cabins left for 2024.

Read more about the trips

Sources: Visit Norway, SMHI, Northern Lights – Carl Bergstrand

Greenland is enormous, almost twice as large as South Africa but, with a population of only about 57,000, it is the least densely populated country on the planet. More than 80% of the land area is covered with a massive ice sheet which reaches a thickness of 3km in some places. To put the scale of the ice sheet into perspective, it is estimated that it contains enough fresh water to raise global sea levels by 7 meters. Given the vastness of the country, it’s only possible to see a small part of it on a trip like this, and our visit focused on the fjords and small settlements around Ilulissat inside the Arctic Circle on the west coast.

Highlights of the trip:

Disko Bay is a classic Greenland destination, but nothing really prepares you for the scale of it. The Ilulissat Icefjord, the most productive in the Northern Hemisphere, releases 35 cubic kilometers of ice into the bay annually, resulting in an incredible array of icebergs, surrounded by massive flocks of sea birds and frolicking whales.

In Qeqertasuaq, we met Danny and Naja with their wonderful Greenland sled dogs, as well as visiting their home for a kaffemik (a traditional open house for coffee and cake). The Greenland dog is considered one of the oldest and 'purest' dog breeds and is related to the wolf. It's likely an important factor in the Thule people's successful migration to this area, and it’s thought that these dogs have been loyal companions for at least 1,000 years. They are incredibly well-adapted, sleeping outside no matter the weather and able to live entirely on a diet of protein and fat. Dog sledding is still the main form of transport over the winter, although sadly, dog numbers are in decline as the sea ice season gets shorter. Only Greenland dogs are permitted inside the Arctic Circle in order to protect their genetic lineage.

Hiking in Greenland is spectacular, and we had a number of opportunities to do short (3-4 km) hikes in remote places, mostly with no marked trails in areas our guides were exploring for the first time. Guide Karin, an expert in Arctic plants, added an extra dimension to the experience, and we even managed some bird-watching.

Glaciers! There is nothing quite like the sights and sounds of a glacier up close – relatively speaking, as you don’t want to get swamped by a wave from a calving iceberg. It’s a special experience to enjoy this from the ship’s deck.

Text and photos: Anne Livingstone and David Park