The Carlsson family's adventure began in 1991, when Olle Carlsson met Stefan Lundgren, a sailor working in Antarctica. Lundgren was looking for a skilled writer to complete a book about his experiences, and Olle, who was a teacher at the time, took on the task. This led to him having the opportunity to join as a guide on an expedition to the remote area.

When Olle returned home, filled with stories and experiences, it sparked an interest in his son Nils. The following year, he too took the step to become a guide in Antarctica. Nils soon became the first in the family to guide in Svalbard, but his father, Olle, wasn't far behind. In an article in Svalbardsposten from October 22, 2022, Johan, Olle's grandson and Nils's son, talks about how he has been inspired by his father and grandfather since childhood.

"Grandpa has worked almost all my life and continued until 2017. Every time he came home from his trips, we sat down with the Mac and looked through the pictures he had taken on the trip," he says.

This inspiration led him to decide in adulthood to follow in their footsteps and become a polar guide.

"I've dreamed about this for as long as I can remember. So my grandfather and dad were probably really happy when I took over the baton as a guide," Johan says in the article from Svalbardsposten.

That Johan started as a guide at PolarQuest is no coincidence. The previous two generations of Carlsson guides have both been part of the company's guide team for many years.

"We have all worked at PolarQuest, including my grandfather. During my first season, I had three trips with my dad as the expedition leader, which was really fun," Johan adds in the same article.

He also mentions that it would be a dream for all three of them to be able to serve as guides on the same expedition one day.

"That would be fantastic," he says.

Was this your first visit to Svalbard?

– Yes, this was my first trip to Svalbard. I have been to Lofoten and northern Norway before, so I have experienced the nature to some extent before. But this type of trip, with a ship and landings in the wilderness, was completely new to me.

How did you come up with the idea to go to the Arctic?

– I have wanted to make this trip for a long time. I am fascinated by animals and nature, and the feeling of getting so close to everything was absolutely magical.

How did you prepare for the trip?

– I prepared by participating in and listening to a Zoom meeting with pre deaparture information from PolarQuest. I also did some reading on packing and equipment.

What were your expectations for Svalbard as a destination? Was it as you imagined?

– I didn't really know what to expect, other than that I would experience something I had never experienced before. The trip was fantastic, better than I could have hoped for. The nature and views we saw were absolutely magical. We had brilliant weather, and we also got to see many different animals and had other unforgettable experiences. It's hard to describe in words for those who weren't there.

You travelled as a solo traveller. How was that experience?

– Yes, it was the first time I travelled completely alone without meeting any companions on site, so naturally, I was a bit nervous beforehand. However, I thought that this type of trip attracts people who, like me, are interested in animals and nature, so I believed I would surely meet someone to connect with. And I did – I met several fellow travellers I could 'hang out with'. I wasn't the only one travelling solo, which felt reassuring. I found it worked very well. The staff on board and the guides were very kind and helpful. When you travel alone, you also have a responsibility to be a little extra open and social.

How did you experience life on board M/S Quest?

– The moments on the boat were relaxing and pleasant. You could spend your free time on board exactly as you wished. If you wanted to sit and watch the surroundings, the lounge was a very comfortable place to be. The only thing you needed to think about was adhering to the set times for excursions, meals, and similar activities.

What was the best part of the trip?

– The best part of the trip was definitely all the impressions I took home with me. All the different shades of blue – the sky, the sea, and ice in various forms.

Do you have any particularly memorable moments that you would like to share?

– I have several memorable moments. One was when we went out early in the morning to the bird cliff. The sea was 'boiling' with birds scouting for a spot on the rock wall, and as we got closer, we saw how how even the rock was ‘moving’ with all the birds that had already secured a place on the ledge. It was truly magical. Another strong memory is when we cruised with the Zodiac and saw a young female polar bear running along the water's edge. She stopped and began to play while we watched her from a distance. It was a special moment.

Another memory is when we went ashore on Moffen in the middle of the night and saw a group of walruses lounging around. Before that, another group of walruses had scoped us out from the water, absolutely incredible! Besides all the fantastic animal encounters, it was an incredible feeling when the boat cruised between small ice floes that floated freely on the water. The sea looked like a puzzle, and reaching the ice wall was an exciting ending.

Many who visit Svalbard are struck by the so-called 'polar bug,' a longing to return. How was it for you?

- Everything amazing I experienced during this trip has been overwhelming. That's why I'm not sure if I would go again, for fear that it wouldn't feel as special next time.

Please note: Depending on the lens used for a photo or video shot an animal may appear to be closer than it is. We always follow strict wildlife guidelines to ensure that we do not cause any disturbance.

Approaching Solar Maximum

We are approaching solar maximum, a period when the Sun’s activity reaches its peak. This phase, which occurs every eleven years, is characterized by an increase in the number of sunspots, solar flares, and other solar activities. During solar maximum, the Sun’s magnetic field also reverses, amplifying the processes that produce spectacular auroras. Therefore, we can expect more frequent and impressive Northern Lights displays during 2024 and 2025.

How do the colours in the sky form?

The Northern Lights' colourful display in the sky is created when electrically charged particles from the Sun, moving at high speed, interact with Earth's magnetic field. These particles are directed towards the poles, where they accelerate and collide with oxygen and nitrogen atoms. These collisions create flashes of light in various colours, which we experience as the aurora. Oxygen atoms primarily emit green light, and occasionally red, while nitrogen produces shades of violet, purple, and blue.

Alta – The Northern Lights City

Few places on Earth are as well-suited for witnessing the vibrant display of the Northern Lights as Northern Norway. From our base in Alta, located directly beneath the auroral oval and with minimal light pollution, we offer whales and Northern Lights expeditions to some of the world's premier spots for viewing this phenomenon. On board our small expedition ship M/S Stockholm, we are far from the lights of civilisation, where no distracting light sources obstruct the view. This further increases the chances of having magical Northern Lights experiences.

Did you know that the world's first permanent Northern Lights observatory was built just outside of Alta at the end of the 19th century?

Want the chance to experience the Northern Lights this year?

Join us on an exciting journey in true expedition style on board the small 12-passenger ship M/S Stockholm, a vessel rich in history and character. We’ll explore the deep fjords of Northern Norway outside Alta, taking in enchanting views. As darkness falls, we’ll keep our eyes on the sky, hoping it fills with brushstrokes of majestic Northern Lights. We also hope for unforgettable encounters with orcas and humpback whales, which in recent years have gathered in the area in search of herring.

We only have a few cabins left for 2024.

Read more about the trips

Sources: Visit Norway, SMHI, Northern Lights – Carl Bergstrand

Greenland is enormous, almost twice as large as South Africa but, with a population of only about 57,000, it is the least densely populated country on the planet. More than 80% of the land area is covered with a massive ice sheet which reaches a thickness of 3km in some places. To put the scale of the ice sheet into perspective, it is estimated that it contains enough fresh water to raise global sea levels by 7 meters. Given the vastness of the country, it’s only possible to see a small part of it on a trip like this, and our visit focused on the fjords and small settlements around Ilulissat inside the Arctic Circle on the west coast.

Highlights of the trip:

Disko Bay is a classic Greenland destination, but nothing really prepares you for the scale of it. The Ilulissat Icefjord, the most productive in the Northern Hemisphere, releases 35 cubic kilometers of ice into the bay annually, resulting in an incredible array of icebergs, surrounded by massive flocks of sea birds and frolicking whales.

In Qeqertasuaq, we met Danny and Naja with their wonderful Greenland sled dogs, as well as visiting their home for a kaffemik (a traditional open house for coffee and cake). The Greenland dog is considered one of the oldest and 'purest' dog breeds and is related to the wolf. It's likely an important factor in the Thule people's successful migration to this area, and it’s thought that these dogs have been loyal companions for at least 1,000 years. They are incredibly well-adapted, sleeping outside no matter the weather and able to live entirely on a diet of protein and fat. Dog sledding is still the main form of transport over the winter, although sadly, dog numbers are in decline as the sea ice season gets shorter. Only Greenland dogs are permitted inside the Arctic Circle in order to protect their genetic lineage.

Hiking in Greenland is spectacular, and we had a number of opportunities to do short (3-4 km) hikes in remote places, mostly with no marked trails in areas our guides were exploring for the first time. Guide Karin, an expert in Arctic plants, added an extra dimension to the experience, and we even managed some bird-watching.

Glaciers! There is nothing quite like the sights and sounds of a glacier up close – relatively speaking, as you don’t want to get swamped by a wave from a calving iceberg. It’s a special experience to enjoy this from the ship’s deck.

Text and photos: Anne Livingstone and David Park